Project Smoke

SMOKED BREAD

A

YIELD: Makes 1 loaf t first glance, this looks like a great country loaf—brown crust, inviting

honey-wheat aroma, soft crumb. The bread is subtly but unmistakably

smoky—not hit-you-over-the-head smoky, like brisket, but infused with a

delicate smoke flavor that makes you feel like you’re eating it in a French

farmhouse that has a wood-burning hearth. The secret: Smoke the flour

and water prior to making the dough. Tip ’o the hat to France-born baker

Johann Villar, who showed me how to smoke these unexpected ingredients.

METHOD: Hot- or cold-

smoking

PREP TIME: 10 minutes

RISING TIME (2 risings):

IV2 to 2 hours

SMOKING TIME: 15 to 20

minutes for hot-smoking; W2

hours for cold-smoking

INGREDIENTS

FUEL: Apple wood or

hardwood of your choice-

enough for 2 hours of smoking

(see chart on page 6)

2 cups unbleached all-purpose white

flour or as needed

1 cup whole wheat flour or 1 additional

cup white flour

1 teaspoon coarse salt (sea or kosher),

plus extra for sprinkling

1% cups water, plus extra as needed

1 envelope (2Vi teaspoons) dry yeast

2 tablespoons honey

1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil,

plus oil for the bowl, loaf pan. and

top of the bread

GEAR: 2 aluminum foil pans;

9-by 5-inch loaf pan; a wire

rack

i

SHOP: Organic flours when

possible 1. Set up your smoker following the

manufacturer’s instructions and

preheat it as low as it will go (200°F

or below). Spread out the flours and

salt in a thin layer (not more than

V4 inch thick) in an aluminum foil

pan or on a rimmed baking sheet.

Place the water in another foil pan.

4. Place the smoked flours, smoked
   salt, and yeast in a food processor
   and process to mix. Add the honey,
   olive oil, and the smoked warm water.
   Process in short bursts to obtain a
   soft, pliable dough. If the dough is
   too stiff, add a little more warm tap
   water; if too soft, add a little more
   flour. Alternatively, you can mix and
   knead the dough by hand or in a
   stand mixer fitted with a dough hook.
   Turn the dough onto a lightly floured
   cutting board and knead by hand into
   a smooth ball.

WHAT ELSE: Sometimes

Villar reinforces the smoky

sweetness of the dough with

caramelized onions.

2. Place the pans in the smoker
   and smoke until the white flour is
   lightly browned on the surface and
   tastes smoky and the water tastes
   smoky. Total smoking time is 15 to 20
   minutes for hot-smoking or 1 to V/2
   hours for cold-smoking. 5. Place the dough in a large lightly
   oiled bowl, turning it to oil both
   sides. Cover with plastic wrap and let
   the dough rise in a warm spot until
   doubled in bulk, 1 to IV2 hours.


3. Let the flours cool to room
   temperature. The water should only
   cool to warm (105°F).

56 | STARTERS