INNHOTELHOSTELDARDARheads for the mountains in Imlil’s new 20-room stone guesthouse. Bedrooms are comfortable
and climate-controlled with hewn wood furnishings, wrought-iron windows and modern en-suite
bathrooms, though keeping dust at the doorstep is a challenge. Rooms facing the courtyard are
quieter but darker; there’s in-room wi-fi, and dining by the salon fireplace.
Hôtel el-Aïne $
( 0524 48 56 25; d incl breakfast without/with bathroom Dh300/350; ) Get the light,
pleasant upstairs rooms around a tranquil courtyard with an old walnut tree. Expect hot
showers, solid meals (Dh70 to Dh90) and shared toilets.
Café-Hotel Soleil $
( 0524 48 56 22; www.hotelsoleil.com; d incl breakfast without/with bathroom Dh300/350;
) A sociable spot that offer five basic dorm-style rooms with shared bathrooms, eight
renovated rooms with en-suite bathrooms, and meals (Dh70 to Dh90) in the riverside
restaurant. Through the downtown parking lot, opposite the bureau de guides.
CAF Refuge $
( 0524 48 56 12; www.caf-maroc.com; dm CAF & HI members/nonmembers Dh45/60,
camping incl shower per person/tent Dh30/20) A climbers’ hostel offers dorm-style bunks,
camping, cooking facilities, hot showers, picnics (Dh50), hot meals (Dh80), and baggage
storage (Dh10 per day).
Information
Imlil has a highly informative bureau des guides ( /fax 0524 48 56 26) , though travel
agencies in Marrakesh can also arrange Toubkal treks with English-speaking guides.
ARMOUD
For Berber hospitality above the trekker fray in Imlil, head 3km up to the hilltop village of
Armoud (aka Armed or Aroumd), at 1960m. You could take the drivable piste from Imlil instead
– but the walking path passes a burbling stream, stone houses and shady orchards. Follow the
path uphill (southwest) through Armoud to number 106 (look for the ochre door), where the
women of the house will invite trekkers for tea among sheep and carpets woven from shredded
T-shirts, with views over the orchards and mountains (Dh20 tip gratefully received).
Sleeping & Eating
Les Roches Armed/Chez Lahcen $
( 067 644915; dm Dh40, d per person incl half-board Dh150) Atop Armoud, guests
enjoy 360-degree mountain views, admire courtyard gardens, and chat by the living room
fireplace before retreating to private rooms with tataoui (woven palm) ceilings or clean dorms.
Shared bathrooms are clean and spiffy, with hot showers; hearty cooking made with High Atlas
produce is served on local crockery emblazoned with Berber power symbols.