TREKKINGTREKKINGTREKKINGM’Hamid itself encompasses two towns and five different ethnic groups: the Harratine,
Berber, Chorfa, Beni M’Hamid and the fabled nomadic ‘Blue Men’. M’Hamid Jdid, the
prematurely aged ‘new’ town, has a mosque, roadside cafe-restaurants, small, mostly grim
hotels, a few hodge-podge craft shops and a Monday souq . There’s a frontier-town feel here,
with tough guys in shesh (turban) and sunglasses hanging around M’Hamid Jdid at dusty cafes,
swapping stories about the tourist who got lost in the desert only to turn up years later, married
with children.
The old town of M’Hamid Bali, 3km away across the Oued Drâa, has a well-preserved
kasbah. After a devastating bout of Bayoud disease in the region, palm trees are making a
comeback in the oasis on the edge of town, forming a green line of resistance against the
advances of the Sahara.
Activities
The best way to reach Erg Chigaga is in classic movie style: by camel, which takes five days or
a week (from Dh400 per day) round trip. Once you’ve got the hang of camel-riding, consider an
epic 12-day camel trip to Foum Zguid via Erg Chigaga. Shorter camel rides to smaller Saharan
dunes are also recommended, though Erg Chigaga has the biggest ones this side of Merzouga.
To reach Erg Chigaga in a few hours, you’ll need to shell out for a 4WD, which costs Dh1000
to Dh1300 with insurance, plus another Dh250 for the camp. Many agencies offer guides and
drivers, which is a good idea – even local drivers familiar with desert conditions can stray off-
course or get stuck in sand.
Have you heard the one about the tourists who declined a local guide’s services, and were
lost to a sandstorm just 2km from town? Stick around, and you will – sales ploys come with the
territory here, but don’t be reeled in by faux guide scare tactics. Treks on foot, camel or 4WD
to Erg Chigaga with reliable, licensed guides can be arranged in Marrakesh, Zagora or in
M’Hamid. Bear in mind that many desert tour operators only accept payment in cash, and since
there are no banks in M’Hamid, you’ll need to hit ATMs in Zagora before you hit the dunes.
Sahara Services
( 061 776766; www.saharaservices.info; Kasbah Sahara Services, M’Hamid) All-inclusive
desert trips via camel and 4WD, including overnights to an encampment of walled Berber tents
in Erg Chigaga with amenities: dinner and music by firelight in the dunes, dromedary rides from
base camp, plus toilets, hot meals, even hot showers. It’s 300m on the right after you enter
M’Hamid.
Zbar Travel
( 068 517280; www.zbartravel.com) Offers overnights at an Erg Chigaga encampment,
sleep-outs under the stars, sand-boarding, dromedary and walking treks, and insights on
Saharawi culture and botany.
Dar Azawad
( 0524 84 87 30; www.darazawad.com; Douar Ouled Driss) For a decadent desert
honeymoon, this M’Hamid guesthouse teamed up with Marrakesh’s Mamounia to offer a luxury
Sahara ‘camping’ experience: champagne at sunset, king-size beds, a barber, masseur, and
henna-tattoo artist upon request, and most impressive of all, en-suite composting toilets.