1 SightS
b s aTaKia quarTer h TiSoriC quarTer
Map p210 Traffic noise fades to a quiet hum
in the labyrinthine lanes of the historic
Bastakia Quarter, Dubai’s old town. Here
you’ll find restored wind-tower houses that
were built nearly a century ago by wealthy
pearl and textile merchants from Persia.
Typical houses are two storeys high, with
a central courtyard surrounded by rooms,
and decorative arches featuring intricate
carvings. Despite their comparatively plain
facades, the houses have wonderful carved
wooden doors, crenulations, carved grilles
and stucco panels.
The Sheikh Mohammed Centre for Cul-
tural Understanding (see boxed text, p67)
operates guided Bastakia walking tours at
10am on Sunday and Thursday (Dh50, res-
ervations advised). However, the compact
area is also easily explored on an aimless
wander, although you may go around in a
few circles, but that’s just part of the fun!
There is a handful of galleries and craft
shops here, as well as the admirable Mawa-
heb from beautiful people (www.mawaheb
-dubai.com), an art studio for people with
special needs.
F ra -lseKal culTural
foundaTion Gallery
Map p 210 ( ritage he house 79, al-Fahidi round-
about; h9.30am-8pm Sat-Thu, closed Fri) Next
door to the Orient Guest House, this ram-
bling Bastakia Quarter courtyard building –
with its labyrinth of galleries set around a
vast central courtyard – provides a fitting
setting for traditional and cutting-edge
works by local and international artists.
Exhibitions change monthly.
FMa is GalleryJl Gallery
Map p 210 (www.themajlisgallery.com; al-Fahidi
roundabout; h9.30am-8pm Sat-Thu) In a
fabulous old house in the Bastakia Quar-
ter, Majlis Gallery is one of Dubai’s oldest
commercial galleries, established in 1989.
Compared with the progressive galleries
in Al-Quoz (p80), Majlis is much more tra-
ditional and gentle. It focuses on paintings
and sculpture created by international art-
ists, many of them based in – and inspired
by – the region. The central courtyard
surrounds a magnificent henna tree. The
gallery also offers inexpensive two-day
painting and drawing workshops.
d bai Museuu M Mu uSeM
Map p 210 ( -Fahidi St; adult/child Dh3/1; al
h8.30am-8.30pm Sat-Thu, 2.30-8.30pm Fri; c)
Located opposite the Grand Mosque, this
low-key museum explores Dubai’s history,
culture and traditions and, although the
emphasis on cutesy dioramas seems more
geared towards school trips, it’s definitely
worth a visit. The exhibits are housed in
1799 Al-Fahidi Fort, considered the oldest
building in Dubai and once the seat of gov-
ernment and residence of Dubai’s rulers.
Start with a quick spin around the court-
yard, with its old-time fishing boats and
traditional dwellings, including a barasti (a
traditional palm-leaf house) that includes
a wind tower and a frighteningly basic
kitchen – essentially just a pot and a pile
of kindling. Pop behind the heavy carved
wooden doors to check out modest displays
of instruments and handcrafted weapons
before heading down a spiralling ramp to
the main galleries.
In the first room a slick multimedia pres-
entation charts Dubai’s exponential growth
from tiny trading post to megalopolis, al-
though the timeline on the opposite wall
goes into greater depth. Beyond here, a
series of dioramas recreates old Dubai, in-
cluding a souq, a school, and a desert camp.
Other displays focus on the Bedu; desert
flora and fauna; traditional costumes and
jewellery; and pearling, fishing and dhow
(traditional wooden boat) building.
The highlight for many will be the final
archaeology section (which seems back to
front, somehow...). It features detailed infor-
mation about the local settlements, which
are believed to have been established here
from around 2000 BC to 1000 BC. Don’t
miss the large well-lit gallery opposite the
gift shop, with its displays of unearthed ar-
tefacts from the numerous tombs that have
been discovered in the area. At one tomb
alone (Al Soufouh) 16 ceramic vessels were
found. Comprehensive explanatory panel-
ling is in English and Arabic.‘ ndi hi lane’ S eeTr T
Map p 210 (off ali bin abi Talib St) Venturing
behind the Grand Mosque you’ll stumble
upon two places of worship behind very
modest exteriors – just keep an eye out for
the piles of shoes at the bottom of stair-
ways. One set of staircases leads to the
Shri Nathje Jayate Temple, also known as
the Krishna Mandir (mandir is Hindi for
temple). Shri Nathje is the main deity ofb
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