BANGKOK
The history wing has made impressive
bounds towards mainstream curatorial aes-
thetics with a succinct chronology of prehis-
toric, Sukhothai-, Ayuthaya- and Bangkok-
era events and fi gures. Gems include King
Ramakamhaeng’s inscribed stone pillar, said
to be the oldest record of Thai writing; King
Taksin’s throne; the Rama V section; and the
screening of the movie about King Praja-
dhipok, The Magic Ring.
The decorative arts and ethnology
exhibit covers every possible handicraft:
traditional musical instruments, ceramics,
clothing and textiles, woodcarving, regalia
and weaponry. The archaeology and art
history wing has exhibits ranging from
prehistoric to the Bangkok period.
In addition to the main exhibition halls,
the Buddhaisawan (Phutthaisawan)
Chapel includes some well-preserved origi-nal murals and one of the country’s most
revered Buddha images, Phra Phut Sihing.
Legend says the image came from Sri Lanka,
but art historians attribute it to 13th-century
Sukhothai.Lak Meuang (City Pillar) ANIMIST SHRINE
(ศาลหลักเมือง; Map p 60 ; cnr Th Ratchadamnoen
Nai & Th Lak Meuang; admission free; h6.30am-
6.30pm; bus 2, 60, 507, river ferry Tha Chang) Serv-
ing as the spiritual keystone of Bangkok, Lak
Meuang is a phallus-shaped wooden pillar
erected by Rama I during the founding of
the new capital city in 1782. Today the struc-
ture shimmers with gold leaf and is housed
in a white cruciform sanctuary. Part of an
animistic tradition, the pillar embodies the
city’s guardian spirit (Phra Sayam Thewathi-
rat) and also lends a practical purpose as aART ATTACKAlthough Bangkok’s hyper-urban environment seems to cater to the inner philistine in
all of us, the city has a signifi cant but low-key art scene. In recent years, galleries seem to
have been opening on a weekly basis, and Bangkok also acts as something of a regional
art hub, with works by emerging artists from places such as Myanmar and Cambodia. To
fi nd out what’s happening while you’re in town, pick up a free copy of the excellent BAM!
(Bangkok Art Map; http://www.bangkokartmap.com).
Our picks of the better galleries:» (^) 100 Tonson Gallery (Map p 86 ; http://www.100tonsongallery.com; 100 Soi Tonson, Th Ploenchit;
h11am-7pm Thu-Sun; BTS Chit Lom) Atmospheric gallery showcasing the work of domestic
and international emerging and high-profile painters, sculptors and conceptual artists.
» (^) Bangkok Art and Culture Centre (BACC; Map p 86 ; http://www.bacc.or.th; cnr Th Phayathai
& Th Phra Ram 1; h10am-9pm Tue-Sun; BTS Siam or National Stadium) This brand-new
state-owned complex combines art and commerce in a multistorey building smack-
dab in the centre of Bangkok.
» (^) H Gallery (Map p 82 ; http://www.hgallerybkk.com; 201 Soi 12, Th Sathon; h10am-6pm Wed-Sat,
by appointment Tue; BTS Surasak) Leading commercial gallery for emerging Thai abstract
painters.
» Kathmandu Photo Gallery (Map p 82 ; http://www.kathmandu-bkk.com; 87 Th Pan; h11am-
7pm Tues-Sun; BTS Surasak) Bangkok’s only truly dedicated photography gallery is
located in a restored Sino-Portuguese shophouse. The small upstairs gallery plays host
to changing exhibitions by local and international artists and photographers.
» Queen’s Gallery (Map p 60 ; http://www.queengallery.org; 101 Th Ratchadamnoen Klang; admis-
sion 30B; h10am-7pm Thu-Tue; bus 2, 15, 44, 511, klorng taxi Tha Phan Fah) This royally
funded gallery presents five floors of rotating exhibitions of modern and traditionally
influenced art.
» (^) Surapon Gallery (Map p 90 ; http://www.rama9art.org/gallery/surapon/index.html; 1st fl, Tisco
Tower, Th Sathon Neua; h11am-6pm Tue-Sat; MRT Lumphini) Unique contemporary Thai art.
» (^) Tang Galler y (Map p 82 ; basement, Silom Galleria, 919/1 Th Silom; h11am-7pm Tue-Sat;
BTS Surasak) Bangkok’s primary venue for modern artists from China has also edged
its way up to become among the city’s top contemporary galleries. Check the posters
in the lobby of the Galleria to see what’s on.
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