Thailand - Planning (Chapter)

BANGKOK

BANGKOK

SIGHTS

BANGKOK

SIGHTS

CHINATOWN & PHAHUR AT
เยาวราช (สําเพ็ง)/พาหุรัด
Bangkok’s Chinatown (called Yaowarat after
its main thoroughfare, Th Yaowarat) is the
urban explorer’s equivalent of the Amazon
Basin. Unlike neighbouring Ko Ratanako-
sin and Banglamphu, the highlights here
aren’t tidy temples or museums, but rather a
complicated web of tiny alleyways, crowded
markets and delicious street stalls. And un-
like other Chinatowns around the world,
Bangkok’s is defi antly ungentrifi ed, and get-
ting lost in it is probably the best thing that
could happen to you.
The neighbourhood dates back to 1782
when Bangkok’s Chinese population, many
of them labourers hired to build the new
capital, were moved here from today’s Ko
Ratanakosin area by the royal rulers. Rela-
tively little has changed since then, and you
can still catch conversations in various Chi-
nese dialects, buy Chinese herbal cures or
taste Chinese dishes not available elsewhere
in Thailand. For those specifi cally interested
in the latter, be sure to check out our food-
based walk around the district (p 123 ).
Getting in and out of Chinatown is hin-
dered by horrendous traffi c. The river ferry
stop at Tha Ratchawong was previously the
easiest way to reach the district; however,
the advent of the MRT has put the area a
brief walk from Hua Lamphong station.
At the western edge of Chinatown is a
small but thriving Indian district, gener-

ally called Phahurat. Here, dozens of Indian-

owned shops sell all kinds of fabric and

clothes.

Wat Traimit BUDDHIST TEMPLE

(วัดไตรมิตร; Temple of the Golden Buddha; Map p 76 ;

cnr Th Yaowarat & Th Charoen Krung; admission

40B; h8am-5pm Tues-Sun; MRT Hua Lamphong,

river ferry Tha Ratchawong) The attraction at

Wat Traimit is undoubtedly the impressive

3m-tall, 5.5-tonne, solid-gold Buddha im-

age, which gleams like, well, gold. Sculpted

in the graceful Sukhothai style, the image

was ‘discovered’ some 40 years ago beneath

a stucco or plaster exterior, when it fell from

a crane while being moved to a new build-

ing within the temple compound. It has

been theorised that the covering was added

to protect it from marauding hordes, either

during the late Sukhothai period or later in

the Ayuthaya period when the city was un-

der siege by the Burmese. The temple itself

is said to date from the early 13th century.

Donations and a constant fl ow of tour-

ists have proven profi table, and the statue

is now housed in a brand-new four-storey

marble structure. The 2nd fl oor of the build-

ing is home to the Phra Buddha Maha Su-

wanna Patimakorn Exhibition (admission

100B; h8am-5pm Tues-Sun), which has exhib-

its on how the statue was made, discovered

and came to arrive at its current home,

while the 3rd fl oor is home to the Yaowarat

Chinatown Heritage Center (admission

Chinatown Phahurat

æ Sights 14 Jék Pûi....................................................... E

1 Church of Santa Cruz............................. A3 15 Khrua Phornlamai ................................... E

2 Gurdwara Siri Guru Singh Sabha ......... C2 16 Lek & Rut .................................................. E

3 Phahurat Market..................................... B2 17 Mangkorn Khâo ....................................... E

4 Talat Mai ...................................................E2 18 Nay Lék Uan ............................................. E

5 Wat Mangkon Kamalawat.......................E2 19 Nay Mong ................................................. E

6 Wat Traimit ...............................................F3 20 Old Siam Plaza......................................... B

Yaowarat Chinatown Heritage 21 Royal India ................................................C

Center.............................................(see 6) 22 T&K............................................................ E

ÿ Sleeping ý Entertainment

7 @Hua Lamphong .................................... G4 23 Chalermkrung Royal Theatre ................ B

8 Baan Hualampong .................................. G

9 China Town Hotel ....................................E3 þ Shopping

10 Shanghai Mansion ...................................E3 24 Pak Khlong Market.................................. A

11 Siam Classic ............................................ G4 25 Sampeng Lane.........................................C

ú Eating

12 Burapa Birds Nest ...................................E

13 Gŏoay Dĕeo Kôoa Gài Stall.....................E