PeloPonneseTHEM
ANIPeloPonneseSLEEPING& EATINGPeloPonneseLAKONIAN MANIfor the last great interfamily feud recorded
in the Mani, which erupted in 1870 and re-
quired the intervention of the army, com-
plete with artillery, to force a truce. Just
west of Kita, Nomia also bristles with some
superb tower remains.
Gerolimenas Γερολιμένας
POP 60
Gerolimenas (yeh-ro-lih-meh-nahss) is a
tranquil fishing village built around a small,
sheltered bay at the southwestern tip of the
Mani peninsula. Its pebble beach overlooks
teal waters and it’s a popular weekend geta-
way for well-heeled Athenians.
4 Sleeping & Eating
There is a small supermarket on the prome-
nade, and several cafes and tavernas.
Kyrimi B&B B&B €€
(%27330 53078; http://www.kyrimi.com; r incl breakfast
€90-120; paW) Consisting of just four luxu-
rious rooms, this intimate B&B inside a tradi-
tional stone house is run by a friendly family.
Your hosts are happy to explain the history
of the area and will feed you an ample break-
fast that includes delicious homemade pies.
Each room has a patio overlooking the sea
- perfect for sunbathing.
Hotel Kirimai LuXurY HOTEL €€€
(%27330 54288; http://www.kyrimai.gr; d incl breakfast
€110-200, ste incl breakfast €260-300; paWs)
Kirimai is a luxurious converted historic
building in an idyllic setting at the far south-
ern end of the harbour. Opt for the stone-
floored, timber-beamed suites if you can, as
the cheaper doubles are cramped and dark
in typical Maniot style. The breakfast is sub-
stantial; the international restaurant is open
to nonguests, but staff could use some train-
ing in professionalism.
8 Getting There & Away
There are three buses daily from Gerolimenas
to Areopoli (€5, 45 minutes), which head on to
Athens (€30, five hours), Gythio (€10, 1¼ hours)
and Sparta (€17, 2¼ hours). The bus stop is
outside Hotel Akrotenaritis.
Gerolimenas to Porto Kagio
Γερολιμένας προς Πόρτο Καγιο
South of Gerolimenas, the road continues
4km to the small village of Alika, where it
divides. One road leads across the moun-
tains to the east coast, and the other goes
south to Vathia and Porto Kagio. The south-
ern road follows the coast, passing pebbly
beaches. It then climbs steeply inland to
Vathia, the most photographed of the tra-
ditional Mani villages, comprising a cluster
of closely packed tower houses perched on
a rocky spur.
If you have nerves of steel and wish to
see an equally impressive traditional village
with practically no visitors, take the road
into the mountains from Alika and then
the turn-off to Mountanistika. The road is
very narrow, with a drop to one side and few
places for passing, so pray for a lack of on-
coming vehicles.
A turn-off to the right 3km south of Vathia
splits in two. The right-hand road also splits
in two: the right branch leads to Marmari,
with its two sandy beaches, while the main
road heads as far south as you can go for
3km, to Kokinogia, where there’s a taverna
and little else.
The left-hand road from the turn-off
south of Vathia cuts across the peninsula to
the tiny east-coast fishing village of Porto
Kagio, set on a perfect horseshoe bay pop-
ular with the international yachting set. It’s
a tranquil place to spend the night. The wa-
terfront tavernas there have similar menus
(mains €7 to €17, fish per kilogram €40 to
€70) featuring seafood and local specialities,
such as wild greens pie.CAPE TENAROFrom the car park below the taverna
at Kokinogia, at the south of the Mani
peninsula, it’s a beautiful 30-minute walk
along an uneven rocky path to one of Eu-
rope’s southernmost points, Cape Ten-
aro (or Cape Matapan), where a restored
lighthouse stands. The cape has been an
important location for millennia and was
first mentioned in Homer’s Iliad.
At the beginning of the path are the
ruins of ancient Tainaron, once a thriv-
ing Roman city (look out for the stunning
wave-patterned, circular mosaic), while
another short path leads to the ruined
church built on the foundations of
Poseidon’s Temple. Nearby is a cave
rumoured to be the entrance to Hades.