Lonely Planet

TASTE TOUR ITALIAOctober 2017 Lonely Planet Traveller 818Before flying home,try truffle huntingaround Sant’AgataFeltria (book a guide throughfoodintour.com). Aim to timeyour visit with one of thetruffle fairs that take placeevery Sunday in October(prolocosantagatafeltria.com). Out of season, pickup truffle delicacies at theSant’Agata Tartufi store(santagatatartufi.it) anddine at Il Tulipano Nero(iltulipanonero.net).6Make traditional pasta inthe home of a Bolognalocal with Le Cesarineorganisation. Lessons includea tour of the city’s food marketsand delis (£75; cesarine.it). Sampletagliatelle al ragu, the local dishthat inspired spaghetti Bolognese,at homely Trattoria dal Biassanot(dalbiassanot.it). Just off the mainsquare in Bologna’s historic centre,Hotel Orologio is a picture ofold-world elegance (from £160;bolognarthotels.it).5Explore the production behind traditional balsamic vinegar atAntica Acetaia Villa Bianca (pictured; acetaiavillabianca.com),on the outskirts of Modena, before continuing to the medievaltown of Castelvetro, where guesthouse Podere Diamante has someof the best hilltop vistas in the region (from £90; poderediamante.it)2On the way to Parma hamproducer Rosa dell’Angeloin Traversetolo (rosaangelo.it), spend a day in the city ofParma. Don’t miss Parma ColorViola, a charming boutique that’sbeen selling traditional violetsweets since the 19th century(parmacolorviola.com). Goodrestaurant options include Tcafè(palazzodallarosaprati.it), for lightlunches with cathedral views, andDegusteria Romani, a restaurantattached to one of Parma’s mostfamous delis (noidaparma.it).3Between Parmaand Reggio Emilia,Parmesan producerFattoria Marchesinioffers visits when bookeda couple of days in advance(fattoriamarchesini.it).A short drive from ReggioEmilia, Cavazzone, anelegant, rustically furnishedagriturismo with cookingclasses and tours of itshouse-made balsamic vinegarattic, is a picturesque place toovernight before continuingto Modena (doubles from£60; cavazzone.it).4In Modena, traditionaltrattoria Ristorante daDanilo combines theregion’s best ingredients in localdishes such as cotoletta allaModenese, veal wrapped first inParma ham and then Parmesan(ristorantedadanilomodena.it).Salumeria Giuseppe Giusti isan exquisitely laid-out deli witha tiny restaurant hidden in the back(hosteriagiusti.it). Gelateria Bloomdelivers quite possibly the best icecream in a region renowned for itsdairy products (@BloomGelato).1Start your trip witha visit to the culatellocellar at Antica CortePallavicina (pictured),a Michelin-starredrestaurant 30 minutes'drive northwest of Parmathat also offers cookingclasses and accommodation(doubles from £160;anticacortepallavicinarelais.com). Nearby, CascinaBodriazzo is anotherculatello maker andfarm-guesthouse, with easyaccess for walks along theRiver Po (doubles £60;cascinabodriazzo.it).(^7)Taste extra virgin olive oil at Terra di Brisighella (brisighello.net), an hour’sdrive from Bologna. On the way to I Muretti, an agriturismo with onsitevineyard near Rimini (from £54, imuretti.it), consider a detour to Forli,a historic town rich in museums, and home to Don Abbondio, a restaurant runby an inventive young chef (osteriadonabbondio.it).Your road tripitinerary