Rajasthan
EASTERN
R AJASTHAN
Rajasthan
Sl EEP iNG & E AT iNG
Rajasthan
SHEKHAWAT
i
tiresome), but this small 18th-century set-
tlement is still a pleasant base for your
haveli explorations.
There is only one main drag, with narrow
lanes fanning off it. The easy-to-find Hotel
Mandawa Haveli is halfway along this street
and makes a handy point of reference. Most
buses drop passengers off on the main drag
as well as by the bus stand.
Binsidhar ̈Newatia ̈Haveli (now the State
Bank of Bikaner & Jaipur) has curious paint-
ings on its outer eastern wall – a boy using
a phone, a European woman in a chauffeur-
driven car, and the Wright brothers in flight.
From Hotel Mandawa Haveli, turn left and
walk under Sonathia Gate to reach the
haveli on your right. Other havelis worth
seeking out include Murmia ̈Haveli and the
nearby Goenka ̈havelis (the wealthy Goen-
ka family own a number of homes here). To
reach these, continue past Binsidhar Newa-
tia Haveli, bear right then left and you’ll see
them on your left and right.
4 ̈Sleeping ̈& ̈Eating
There are at least half a dozen haveli ho-
tels here, either on or near the main drag.
Rooms in them range from ₹1200 to ₹4000.
Mandawa is small so wandering around
town to find a room is relatively easy.
Hotel ̈Shekhawati ̈ HOTEl $
(%9314698079; http://www.hotelshekwati.com; r ₹400-
1800; aiW) The best budget choice in town
is run by a retired bank manager and his
son (who’s also a registered tourist guide).
Bright, comically bawdy murals painted
by artistic former guests give the rooms a
splash of colour. OK meals (and bottles of
beer) are served on the peaceful rooftop, and
competitively priced camel, horse and jeep
tours can also be arranged. Internet is ₹50
per hour; wi-fi ₹40. From Hotel Mandawa
Haveli, walk away from Sonathia Gate, over
the mini roundabout, then take the second
narrow lane on your right. Hotel Shekhawati
is on your left after 200m.
Hotel ̈Mandawa ̈Haveli ̈HER iTAGE HOTEl $$$
(%223088; http://www.hotelmandawa.com; s/d from
₹1750/2200; a) Set in a glorious, restored
19th-century haveli with rooms surround-
ing a painted courtyard, this is one of the
nicest places to stay. The cheapest rooms are
small, but still lovingly decorated. There’s a
good rooftop restaurant (set meals ₹325 to
₹400; beer available), shaded garden seat-
ing, wi-fi throughout, massage treatments
(from ₹800) and camel-cart tours of the sur-
rounding countryside (₹450).Monica ̈Rooftop ̈Restaurant ̈ iND iAN $$
(mains ₹100-300; h8am-9pm) This delightful
rooftop restaurant sits on top of a small but
charming courtyard residence, which you
have to walk through as you climb the stairs.
It’s signposted down an alleyway beside the
half-abandoned Mandawa Fort, which in
turn is signposted from the main drag, on
the other side of Sonathia Gate from Hotel
Mandawa Haveli.Bungli ̈Restaurant ̈ iND iAN $$
(Goenka Chowk; mains ₹130-300; h5am-10pm) A
popular open-air travellers’ eatery near the
bus stand, Bungli serves piping-hot tandoori
and cold beer (from ₹160). Early risers can
have an Indian breakfast and a yoga class
for a total of ₹450. Turn left out of Hotel
Mandawa Haveli, bear right at the end of the
road and Bungli is in front of you on the left.8 Getting ̈There ̈& ̈Away
The main bus stand, sometimes called Bikaner
bus stand, has frequent services (roughly half-
hourly), including those listed below. Note, there
is also a separate Nawalgarh bus stand, just off
the main drag, with services to Nawalgarh only.
Both bus stands are so small they are unrecog-
nisable as bus stands unless a bus is waiting at
them. look for the chai stalls that cluster beside
them and you should have the right spot. The
main bus stand is at one end of the main drag, on
your left as the road bears right. it’s a few hun-
dred metres walk from Hotel Mandawa Haveli
(turn left out of the hotel).
Bikaner (₹100, four hours)
Fatehpur (₹20, 30 minutes)
Jhunjhunu (₹17, 1 hour)
Nawalgarh (₹25, 45 minutes)Fatehpur
% 01571 / POP 89,000
Established in 1451 as a capital for nawabs
(Muslim ruling princes), Fatehpur was their
stronghold for centuries before it was taken
over by the Shekhawati Rajputs in the 18th
century. It’s a busy little town, with plenty of
havelis, many in a sad state of disrepair, but
with a few notable exceptions.
Apart from the magnificent Haveli Na-
dine Le Prince, other sights include the
nearby Jagannath ̈Singhania ̈Haveli; the
Mahavir ̈ Prasad ̈ Goenka ̈ Haveli (often
locked, but with superb paintings); Geori ̈
Shankar ̈Haveli, with mirrored mosaics on