India 15 - Rajasthan (Chapter)

(Marcin) #1

Rajasthan


SOUTHERN


R AJASTHAN


Rajasthan


Sl EEP iNG & E AT iNG


Rajasthan


CH iTTORGARH (CH


iTTOR)


ple, a Jain temple built by Rana Kumbha’s
treasurer in 1448 and adorned with attrac-
tive, intricate carvings of elephants, musi-
cians and deities. Just past here is Badi ̈Pol,
the gateway through which you pass to ac-
cess the rest of the fort.


̈ ̈Meera ̈& ̈Kumbha ̈Shyam ̈Temples


Both these temples southeast of the Rana
Kumbha Palace were built by Rana Kumbha
in the ornate Indo-Aryan style, with classic,
tall sikharas (spires). The Meera Temple,
the smaller of the two, is now associated
with the mystic-poetess Meerabai, a 16th-
century Mewar royal who was poisoned by
her brother-in-law but survived due to the
blessings of Krishna. The Kumbha Shyam
Temple is dedicated to Vishnu and its carved
panels illustrate 15th-century Mewar life.


̈ ̈Tower ̈of ̈Victory


The glorious Tower of Victory (Jaya Stam-
bha), symbol of Chittorgarh, was erected
by Rana Kumbha in the 1440s, probably to
commemorate a victory over Mahmud Khilji
of Malwa. Dedicated to Vishnu, it rises 37m
in nine exquisitely carved storeys, and you
can climb the 157 narrow stairs (the interior
is also carved) to the 8th floor, from where
there’s a good view of the area.


Below the tower, to the southwest, is the
Mahasati area where there are many sati
(widow suicide by immolation) stones – this
was the royal cremation ground and was also
where 13,000 women committed jauhar in


  1. The Sammidheshwar ̈Temple, built
    in the 6th century and restored in 1427, is
    nearby. Notable among its intricate carving
    is a Trimurti (Three-Faced) figure of Shiva.
    ̈ ̈Gaumukh ̈Reservoir
    Walk down beyond the Sammidheshwar
    Temple and at the edge of the cliff is a
    deep tank, the Gaumukh Reservoir, where
    you can feed the fish. The reservoir takes
    its name from a spring that feeds the tank
    from a gaumukh (cow’s mouth) carved into
    the cliffside.
    ̈ ̈Padmini’s ̈Palace
    Continuing south, you reach the Kalika ̈
    Mata ̈ Temple (across from Padmini’s Palace,
    Fort), an 8th-century sun temple damaged
    during the first sacking of Chittorgarh and
    then converted to a temple for the goddess
    Kali in the 14th century. Padmini’s Palace
    stands about 250m further south, beside a
    small lake with a central pavilion. Legend
    relates that, as Padmini sat in this pavilion,
    Ala-ud-din Khilji saw her reflection in mir-
    rors from the palace, and this glimpse con-
    vinced him to destroy Chittorgarh in order
    to possess her.
    ̈ ̈Surajpol ̈& ̈Tower ̈of ̈Fame
    Surajpol, on the fort’s east side, was the
    main gate and offers fantastic views across
    the empty plains. A little further north, the
    24m-high Tower of Fame (Kirtti Stambha) is
    older (dating from 1301) and smaller than
    the Tower of Victory. Built by a Jain mer-
    chant, the tower is dedicated to Adinath,
    the first Jain tirthankar (one of the 24 re-
    vered Jain teachers), and is decorated with
    naked figures of various other tirthankars,
    indicating that it is a monument of the Dig-
    ambara (sky-clad) order. Next door is a 14th-
    century Jain temple.


4 ̈Sleeping ̈& ̈Eating

If you fancy a beer with your meal, head to
the restaurant at Hotel Pratap Palace.

Hotel ̈Bhagwati ̈ HOTEl $
(%246226; City Rd; s ₹200-300, d ₹300-400, s/d
with AC ₹550/650) The best of Chittorgarh’s
budget bunch, Bhagwati has more charm
than its rivals. Rooms surround an open-air

Chittorgarh(Chittor)
æSights
1 AdhbudhnathShivaTemple..............D2
2 Chhatris..............................................C2
3 ChittorgarhFort..................................D1
4 FatehPrakashPalace........................D 2
5 KalikaMataTemple...........................C3
6 KumbhaShyamTemple....................D 2
7 Mahasati.............................................C 2
8 MeeraTemple....................................C2
9 NeelkanthMahadevJain
Temple.............................................D 2
10 Padmini'sPalace................................D 3
11 RanaKumbhaPalace.........................C 2
12 RatanSinghPalace.............................C 1
13 SammidheshwarTemple...................D2
14 SringarChowriTemple......................D2
15 TowerofFame...................................D2
16 TowerofVictory.................................D 2

ÿSleeping
17 HotelBhagwati...................................B2
18 HotelPratapPalace...........................A3
19 PadminiHaveli....................................D 1

úEating
20 ChokhiDhaniGardenFamily
Restaurant.......................................A 2
21 SaffireGardenRestaurant.................B2
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