Rajasthan
SOUTHERN
R AJASTHAN
Rajasthan
Sl EEP iNG & E AT iNG
Rajasthan
AROUND
U DA iPUR
TAXI
Most hotels, guesthouses and travel agencies
(many of which are on the road leading down
to the lake from Jagdish Temple) can organise
you a car and driver to just about anywhere
you want. As an example, a return day trip to
Ranakpur and Kumbhalgarh will cost you around
₹1500 per vehicle.Around Udaipur
Kumbhalgarh
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About 80km north of Udaipur, Kumbhal-
garh (indian/foreigner ₹5/100; h9am-6pm) is
a fantastic remote fort, fulfilling romantic
expectations and vividly summoning up
the chivalrous, warlike Rajput era. One
of the many forts built by Rana Kumbha
(r 1433–68), under whom Mewar reached its
greatest extents, the isolated fort is perched
1100m above sea level, with endless views
melting into the blue distance. And the jour-
ney to the fort, along twisting roads through
the Aravalli Hills, is a highlight in itself.
Kumbhalgarh was the most important
Mewar fort after Chittorgarh, and the rulers,
sensibly, used to retreat here in times of dan-
ger. Not surprisingly, Kumbhalgarh was only
taken once in its entire history. Even then, it
took the combined armies of Amer, Marwar
and Mughal emperor Akbar to breach its
strong defences, and they only managed to
hang onto it for two days.
The fort’s thick walls stretch for about
10km to 12km; they’re wide enough in some
places for eight horses to ride abreast and it’s
possible to walk a complete circuit on top of
the wall in around four hours. They enclosearound 360 intact and ruined temples, some
of which date back to the Mauryan period in
the 2nd century BC, as well as palaces, gar-
dens, step-wells and 700 cannon bunkers.
Note, if you’re staying here and want to
make an early start on your hike around the
wall, you can still get into the fort before
9am, although no one will be around to sell
you a ticket.
There’s a Light ̈& ̈Sound ̈Show (₹200) at
the fort every evening at 6.30pm.
The large and rugged Kumbhalgarh Wild-
life Sanctuary can be visited from Kumbhal-
garh. Ask at the Aodhi hotel about organising
jeep, horse or walking trips in the sanctuary.4 ̈Sleeping ̈& ̈Eating
Lucky ̈Restaurant ̈
and ̈Guest ̈House ̈ GUESTHOUSE $
(%9783828309; huts/tents/rooms ₹200/300/
300) Located 200m up the approach road
to the fort (so about 1.5km from the fort it-
self), and set down from the road amongst
rice paddies and surrounding farmland,
this shanty guesthouse is about as basic
as it gets, but it’s a magical spot. There are
five simple rooms, a couple of tents and two
thatched huts on wooden stilts that are just
about big enough for a double mattress. It’s
shared bathrooms only and hot water by
the bucket, but the rural setting is hard to
beat and the friendly manager keeps you
well fed and ensures a constant flow of chai.Aodhi ̈ HOTEl $$$
(%8003722333, 242341; http://www.eternalmewar.in;
Kumbhalgarh; r from ₹7200; aiWs) On the
main road about 100m before the start of
the approach road to the fort, and just un-
der 2km from the fort itself, is this luxuriousKUMBHALGARH ̈WILDLIFE ̈SANCTUARY
Ranakpur is a great base for exploring the hilly, densely forested Kumbhalgarh ̈Wild-
life ̈Sanctuary (indian/foreigner ₹20/160, jeep or car ₹130, camera/video free/₹400, guide
per day ₹200; hdawn-dusk), which extends over some 600 sq km to the northeast and
southwest. It’s known for its leopards and wolves, although the chances of spotting
antelopes, gazelles, deer and possible sloth bears are higher, especially from March
to June. You will certainly see some of the sanctuary’s 200-plus bird species. Some of
the best safaris and treks are offered (to guests and nonguests) by Shivika Lake Hotel:
options include jeep safaris (per person ₹700 to ₹1200), day-long forest walks (₹750),
a guided round trip to Kumbhalgarh (bus there, hike back; ₹650) and even overnight
camping trips.
Note, there is a ticket office for the sanctuary right beside where the bus drops you
off for the Jain temples, but the nearest of the sanctuary’s four entrances is 2km beyond
here, near Shivika Lake Hotel.