India 15 - Rajasthan (Chapter)

(Marcin) #1

Rajasthan


WESTERN


R AJASTHAN


Rajasthan


Sl EEP iNG


Rajasthan


JODHPUR


4    Old City
Shivam ̈Paying ̈Guest ̈House ̈ GUESTHOUSE $
(%2610688; http://www.shivamguesthouse.com; r ₹200-
800; a) Decent, hassle-free budget guest-
house run by honest management. Has cosy
rooms, (very) steep staircases and a lovely
little rooftop restaurant with free wi-fi.

Pushp ̈Paying ̈Guest ̈House ̈ GUESTHOUSE $
(%2648494; [email protected]; Manak
Chowk, Pipli-ki-Gali, Naya Bass; r ₹200-600;
aiW) A small guesthouse with a warm
and friendly welcome and five clean, colour-
ful rooms with windows and wi-fi. Dramatic
fort views from the rooftop restaurant.

Hare ̈Krishna ̈Guest ̈House ̈ GUESTHOUSE $
(%2635307; http://www.harekrishnaguesthouse.net; r
₹200-800) This is another old house that
has been extended upwards and squeezes
in rooms and stairs wherever possible.
The range of rooms is impressive – from
the cave-like cheapie to the spacious fort-
view rooms. Friendly staff, free wi-fi and, of
course, a rooftop restaurant.

Krishna ̈Prakash ̈
Heritage ̈Haveli ̈ HER iTAGE HOTEl $$
(%2633448; http://www.kpheritage.net; Nayabas; r incl
breakfast ₹1000-4000; ais) This multi-
level 1902 haveli right under the fort walls
is good value and a peaceful choice. It has
prettily painted furniture, murals and old
family portraits, and rooms are well pro-
portioned; the deluxe ones are a bit more
spruced up, generally a bit bigger, and set
on the upper floors, so airier. There’s a small
covered swimming pool and a relaxing ter-
race restaurant.

Shahi ̈Guest ̈House ̈ HER iTAGE GUESTHOUSE $$
(%2623802; http://www.shahiguesthouse.net; Gandhi
St, City Police; r ₹1500-2750; aW) Shahi is an
interesting guesthouse developed from a
350-year-old zenana. There’s lots of cool
stone, and narrow walkways surrounding
a petite courtyard. The six rooms are indi-
vidual and spacious yet cosy, and Anu and
her family, who run the place, are charming.
There is a delightful rooftop restaurant with
fort views.

Pal ̈Haveli ̈ HER iTAGE HOTEl $$$
(%3293328; http://www.palhaveli.com; Gulab Sagar; r incl
breakfast ₹3500-8500; aiW) This stunning
haveli, the best and most attractive in the
old city, was built by the Thakur of Pal in


  1. There are 21 charming, spacious rooms,


mostly large and elaborately decorated in
traditional heritage style, surrounding a cool
central courtyard. The family still lives here
and can show you its small museum. Three
restaurants serve excellent food, including
rooftop Indique with its fine views.

Haveli ̈Inn ̈Pal ̈ HER iTAGE HOTEl $$$
(%2612519; http://www.haveliinnpal.com; r incl breakfast
₹2050-2550; aiW) The smaller, 12-room
sibling of Pal Haveli. It’s accessed through
the same grand entrance, but is located
around to the right in one wing of the grand
haveli. It’s a simpler heritage experience,
with comfortable rooms and lake or fort
views from the more expensive ones.

Raas ̈ BOUTiQUE HOTEl $$$
(%2636455; http://www.raasjodhpur.com; Tunvarji-ka-
Jhalra; incl breakfast r ₹17,000-21,000; aiWs)
Developed from a 19th-century city man-
sion, Jodhpur’s first contemporary-style
boutique hotel is a splendid retreat of clean,
uncluttered style, hidden behind a big
castle-like gateway. If you fancy a change
from the heritage aesthetic that prevails
in Rajasthan’s top-end hotels, Raas’ clean,
uncluttered style and subtle lighting are
just the ticket. The red-stone-and-terrazzo
rooms are not massive, but they come with
plenty of luxury touches and have balconies
with great Mehrangarh views or small pri-
vate gardens. The terrace restaurant (mains
₹400 to ₹800) is also a classy affair.

4    Old City (Navchokiya)
One of the most atmospheric yet least tour-
isty parts of the old city, Navchokiya’s nar-
row, twisting lanes lie in the shadow of the
western end of Mehrangarh, which you can
enter at Fateh Pol gate.

Cosy ̈Guest ̈House ̈ GUESTHOUSE $
(%2612066, 9829023390; cosyguesthouse@
gmail.com; Chuna Ki Choki, Navchokiya; r ₹350-850,
without bathroom ₹250; iW) A friendly place
in an enchanting location, this 500-year-
old glowing blue house has several levels
of higgledy-piggledy rooftops and a mix of
rooms, some monastic, others comfortable.
Ask for Navchokiya Rd, from where the
guesthouse is signposted, or call genial Mr
Joshi.

Veggie ̈Guest ̈House ̈ GUESTHOUSE $
(%2611010; Ramdevji-ka-Chowk, Navchokiya; r
₹400-800; ai) Run by a welcoming elderly
couple, this quiet but large family courtyard
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