Rajasthan
WESTERN
R AJASTHAN
Rajasthan
Sl EEP iNG
Rajasthan
JA iSA lMER
Roop ̈Mahal ̈ HOTEl $
(%251700; http://www.hotelroopmahal.com; r ₹300-1500)
Clean spacious rooms in a new buidling,
trustworthy management, fort views from
the rooftop restaurant (mains ₹80 to ₹180)
and free wi-fi throughout. A solid budget
choice, but with some fancier rooms too.Hotel ̈Renuka ̈ HOTEl $
(%252757; [email protected]; Chain-
pura St; r ₹250-650, with AC ₹800; ai) Spread
over three floors, Renuka has squeaky cleanrooms – the best have balconies, private
bathrooms and air-con. It’s been warmly ac-
commodating guests since 1988, so manage-
ment knows its stuff. The roof terrace has
great fort views and a good restaurant.Hotel ̈Tokyo ̈Palace ̈ HOTEl $
(%255483; http://www.tokyopalace.net; Dhibba Para;
dm ₹150, s ₹300-1200, d ₹500-2000; aiWs)
Well-run by honest, traveller-friendly man-
agement, this new place has clean mid-JAISALMER ̈CAMEL ̈SAFARIS
Trekking around by camel is the most evocative and fun way to sample Thar Desert life.
Don’t expect dune seas, however – the Thar is mostly arid scrubland sprinkled with villages
and wind turbines, with occasional dune areas popping out here and there. You will often
come across fields of millet, and children herding flocks of sheep or goats whose neck-
bells tinkle in the desert silence – a welcome change after the sound of belching camels.
Most trips now include jeep rides to get you to less frequented areas. The camel riding
is then done in two-hour batches, one before lunch, one after. It’s hardly camel trekking,
but it’s a lot of fun nevertheless. A cheaper alternative to arranging things in Jaisalmer is
to base yourself in the small village of Khuri (p193), 48km southwest, where similar camel
rides are available but where you’re already in the desert when you start.Before ̈You ̈Go
Competition between safari organisers is cut-throat and standards vary. Most hotels and
guesthouses are very happy to organise a camel safari for you. While many provide a good
service, some may cut corners and take you for the kind of ride you didn’t have in mind.
A few low-budget hotels in particular exert considerable pressure on guests to take ‘their’
safari. Others specifically claim ‘no safari hassle’.
You can also organise a safari directly with one of the several reputable specialist agen-
cies in Jaisalmer. Since these agencies depend exclusively on safari business it’s particu-
larly in their interest to satisfy their clients. It’s a good idea to talk to other travellers and
ask two or three operators what they’re offering.
A one-night safari, leaving Jaisalmer in the afternoon and returning the next morning,
with a night on some dunes, is a minimum to get a feel for the experience: you’ll probably
get 1½ to two hours of riding each day. You can trek for several days or weeks if you wish.
The longer you ride, the more you’ll gain understanding of the desert’s villages, oases,
wildlife and people.
The best-known dunes, at Sam (40km west of Jaisalmer), are always crowded in the
evening and are more of a carnival than a back-to-nature experience. The dunes near Khuri
are also quite busy at sunset, but quiet the rest of the time. Operators all sell trips now to
‘nontouristy’ and ‘off the beaten track’ areas. Ironically, this has made Khuri quieter again,
although Sam still hums with day-tripper activity.
With jeep transfers included, typical rates are between ₹1100 and ₹1700 per person for
a one-day-one-night trip (leaving one morning, and returning the next). This should include
meals, mineral water and blankets, and sometimes a thin mattress. Check that there will
be one camel for each rider. You can pay for greater levels of comfort (eg tents, better
food), but always get it all down in writing.
You should get a cheaper rate (₹900 to ₹1500 per person) if you leave Jaisalmer in the
afternoon and return the following morning. A quick sunset ride in the dunes at Sam costs
around ₹550 per person, including jeep transfer. At the other end of the scale, you can
arrange for a 20-day trek to Bikaner. Expect to pay between ₹1000 and 2000 per person
per day for long, multiday trips, depending on the level of support facilities (jeeps, camel
carts, etc).