India 15 - Rajasthan (Chapter)

Rajasthan

WESTERN

R AJASTHAN

Rajasthan

EAT iNG

Rajasthan

Bi KANER

is) This guesthouse is in a family home
3km south of the main train station. It’s a
cosy choice and is the base of one of Bikan-
er’s best-known camel-safari operations. It’s
good value, the family is welcoming and
there’s home-cooked food available. It’s op-
posite Gopeshwar Temple; free pick-up from
the main train station.

Hotel ̈Jaswant ̈Bhawan ̈ HOTEl $$

(%2548848, 9001554746; http://www.hoteljaswantb-
hawan.com; s/d ₹800/1000; ai) You’ll get a
lovely welcome at this peaceful, unassuming
200-year-old family home, which has been
been converted into a simple but elegant

guesthouse. Rooms are large, bright and
spotlessly clean and come with family photo-
graphs and quality furniture. The pleasant
garden contains a vegetable patch and a
chicken coop. It’s just outside the back en-

trance of the train station.

Bhairon ̈Vilas ̈ HER iTAGE HOTEl $$$

(%2544751, 9928312283; http://hotelbhaironvilas.
tripod.com; r from ₹2000; aiW) This delight-
ful hotel on the west side of the fort is run

by a former Bikaner prime minister’s great-

grandson. Rooms are mostly large and are

eclectically decorated with antiques, gold-

threaded curtains and old family photo-

graphs (some of the wiring and fittings seem

to be of the same vintage). The restaurant

and quirky bar both have outdoor seating

in the well-kept gardens. Fish for discounts

when it’s quiet. You can sometimes get

rooms for around half price.

Bhanwar ̈Niwas ̈ HER iTAGE HOTEl $$$

(%2529323; http://www.bhanwarniwas.com; Rampuria

St; r ₹4500; ai) Charming rather than luxu-

rious, this fine hotel has been developed out

of the beautiful 1927 Rampuria Haveli – a

gem in the old city, 300m southwest of the

City Kotwali police station. It has 26 indi-

vidual, spacious and delightfully decorated

rooms, featuring stencil-painted wallpaper,

marble or mosaic floors, and antique fur-

nishings. Comfortable common rooms drip

with antiques and are arranged around a

large internal courtyard, which doubles as a

venue for cultural events. Nonguests can eat

dinner here (from 7.30pm to 9.30pm) for a

set ₹600 per person.

5 ̈Eating

All the hotels and guesthouses we cover also

serve food.

Chhotu ̈Motu ̈Joshi ̈ CAFE $

(Station Rd; snacks & sweets ₹10-30; h7am-10pm)

A hidden gem near the train station, this

no-nonsense local favourite not only does

Bikaner’s best lassi (small/large ₹15/25), it

also knocks up very tasty kachori samosa

(two for ₹20) plus lip-smackingly delicious

Bengali sweets such as spongy rasgulla

(three for ₹10) or syrupy gulab jamun (four

for ₹30). It’s also a good spot for breakfast

puri (₹6 each) and vegetable danamethi (an

unusual Rajasthani speciality with a fenu-

greek sauce; ₹25). Not much English spoken,

but there’s an English menu chalked on the

wall behind the counter.

Heeralal’s ̈ MU lTiCU iSiNE $

(Station Rd; mains ₹50-150; h7.30am-10.30pm)

This bright and popular 1st-floor restaurant

serves up pretty good Indian dishes, plus a

few Chinese dishes and pizzas, amid large

banks of plastic flowers. The ground floor is

more of a canteen and is popular for South

Indian breakfasts, lunchtime thalis and its

range of chaat (spicy snacks; ₹25 to ₹60).

Bikaner

æSights

1 Junagarh.............................................C1

2 PoonamChandKothaliHaveli...........A4

3 RampuriaHaveli.................................A4

ÿSleeping

4 BhaironVilas.......................................C 1

5 BhanwarNiwas..................................A3

6 HotelJaswantBhawan......................C3

7 HotelMarudharHeritage...................C3

8 ShantiHouse......................................A4

úEating

BhanwarNiwas...........................(see5)

9 ChhotuMotuJoshi.............................C3

10 Gallops.................................................D1

11 GardenCafé.......................................C2

12 Heeralal's............................................C 3

13 LaxmiHotel........................................C 3

ûDrinking&Nightlife

BhaironVilas...............................(see4)

14 HeeralalHotel.....................................C 3

ïInformation

15 AgarwalInternet.................................C3

16 ATM....................................................C2

17 BankofBarodaATM..........................C 3

18 SBBJATM..........................................C3

19 StateBankofBikaner&Jaipur..........D4

20 StateBankofBikaner&Jaipur...........D1