165THE TEMPLES
TEMPLES OF BAGAN
TEMPLES OF BAGANNYAUNG U AREAlic reluctant to give up all their beliefs for
Buddhism. Ask around if the compound is
locked. At one end stands an original stone
fi gure of Thagyamin, king of the nat and a
direct appropriation of the Hindu god Indra.
This is the oldest known freestanding Thag-
yamin fi gure in Myanmar.
The site was started by Anawrahta but
not completed until the reign of Kyanzittha.
The latter is thought to have built his palace
nearby.
A path on the north side leads down to
the riverbank, where you can get some in-
teresting views.
Kyanzittha Umin BUDDHIST TEMPLE
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Although offi cially credited to Kyanzittha,
this cave temple may actually date back
to Anawrahta. Built into a cliff face 270yd
southwest of Shwezigon, the long, dimly lit
corridors are decorated with frescoes, some
of which are thought to have been painted
by Bagan’s Tartar invaders during the period
of the Mongol occupation after 1287. An at-
tendant will usually greet you with a torch
to lend and keys to unlock the doors. It’s
very quiet in there, and you can actually see
the 700-year-old brush strokes.THREE TEMPLES BY THE AYEYARWADYFrom Nyaung U’s jetty you can negotiate a fun boat trip to see three temples just off the
Ayeyarwady riverbank. Half a mile north, is 13th-century Thetkyamuni, with a few mu-
rals inside (hard to make out) and tight, dark steps leading up to a small terrace up top.
On the hill nearby is the same-era Kondawgyi Pahto, with better preserved murals and
views from the surrounding platform.
Another kilometre or so north is the 11th- and 12th-century Kyauk Gu Ohnmin cave
temple, built in the side of a ravine. It’s said during WWII Japanese soldiers hid out here.
The inside tunnels lead about 55yd to blocked-off rubble. Some locals say the tunnel was
intended to go, ahem, to Pindaya Cave near Inle Lake. You can climb on top of the temple
from the new steps to the right.
These sights are accessible, with more diffi culty, by road. A boat trip takes about two
or three hours, and your driver will show you the temples. It costs about K15,000 for
three or four people.© Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. To make it easier for you to use,
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