november2011

Baja

96 SanDiegoMagazine.comNovember2011

As the desert heat subsides and the gray whales

start their journey south to mate, the winter months

are prime season to visit Baja California. From the

urban dining scene generating international buzz in

Tijuana to the new luxury resorts on the coasts of

Loreto Bay and La Paz, we uncover 9 places to

explore on the peninsula.

BEST

OF

Rancho Pescadero

GET AWAY Part of the allure of Baja is fi nding

the unexpected down an unassuming dirt road.

For discerning travelers who want to be in the

know, the spot everyone is talking about is Ran-

cho Pescadero, located an hour north of Cabo

on the Pacifi c. This intimate resort (27 rooms) is

a study in good taste and unpretentious luxury

with an aff ordable price tag. And you can’t beat

the setting: adobe-style casitas nestled in natural

sand dunes and a grove of palm trees, outdoor

siesta beds on palm-frond-covered patios, and

billowing colorful sheer drapery. Ocean views

allow front row whale-watching, while oversized

Oaxocan pottery and hand woven rugs by local

artisans add south-of-the-border charm.

EAT The new chef, Rodrigo Bueno, hails from

Market (the swanky Jean-Georges restaurant

at nearby One & Only Palmilla) and brings

a new meaning to the concept of “boat-to-

throat,” as the Pescadero village is also a fi shing

cooperative—a fresh catch comes in daily by

2:30 p.m. for that evening’s specials. All other

ingredients are sourced from within a 20-mile

radius. Think fresh ceviche, pozole verde, or

roasted poblano peppers followed by the

daily catch in a tamarind-coconut broth.

Couples can dine privately on the beach

with their own personal bonfi re.

PLAY Surfers can take a fi ve-minute walk

to the barrels at San Pedrito’s break or a

short drive to Cerritos Beach for more forgiving

waves for newbies. Horse-lovers can gallop along

the deserted shores in front of the resort. When

spa-ing, be sure to try the traditional Mayan sauna

(a temazcal) infused with eucalyptus and steam for

a mind-body cleanse. Mountain view rooms start at

$185; suites at $235. ranchopescadero.com

The pool at

Rancho Pescadero

Sea of Cortez,

La Paz

✱

By Erin Chambers Smith

and Ann Wycoff

PHOTO COURTESY OF THE LA PAZ TOURISM BOARD