coastal cuisine. The food may not be mind-bending, but he’s created
a solid menu overall. Requisite cheese and meat boards, fritto misto,
and ahi tartare are no surprise as appetizers, but an intriguing origi-
nal appears as 500-year-old “ancient grain” polenta served in a mason
jarand laced with herbs, garlic, and mascarpone, and further jazzed
with a balsamic reduction, truffl ed mushroom nuggets, and Parmesan.
Giant roasted mussels bathe in spicy tomato broth, fl amboyant and
afi re with fennel, caramelized shallots, and garlic aioli. Mom’s Meat-
balls nestle in roasted tomato sauce, but the pork, veal, and beef orbs
lack pizzazz.
For salads, the gorgonzola “chopped” seems overdressed and messy,
while the burrata “handmade” feels more refi ned and elegant—a pret-
ty collage of roasted beet chunks, avocado, and tart vibrant citrus. Old
World pasta-lovers will appreciate the simple bolognese tagliatelle,
with its hand-cut, perfectly al dente
ribbons in a coat of six-hour sim-
mered ragu with Gioia ricotta and a
smattering of herbs. The slow roast-
ed Duroc pork, Colabove’s signature,
is tender and competently prepared
as the chef opens the shoulder and
rubs it with herbs, fennel pollen, and
olive oil, then ties it up so it can sit
overnight for an immersion of fl avor.
Marinated prime hanger steak, with notes of sherry vinegar, garlic,
basil, and parsley, is another safe bet, while the swordfi sh special felt
overpowered by the red bell pepper sauce.
As wine is the name of the game, the California dominated list
has over 160 choices with standouts like Orin Swi ’s Saldo and The
Prisoner, and other interesting boutique wines like Hudson Vineyards’
Chardonnay, a Belle Glos Meiomi and Abigail Adams’ Cameo Pinot.
Service runs the gamut from old-school pro—ask for Patrick—to the
not-quite-so-polished-verging-on-cocky-types who need a little more
schooling in the wine list.
Despite the pervasive butterscotch pudding trend on dessert menus
across town, their budino is a devilish enticer—creamy, rich, and com-
forting layers of chocolate and butterscotch with the magic of sea salt
at play. Sticky toff ee pudding is another sugar fest that’s making a
major comeback and Colabove’s is worthy of the calories.
While live music fi lls the space Wednesday through Saturday, the
Larry White jazz trio lends too much of a grown-up La Jolla-esque
feel, with its renditions of Herb Alpert & the Tijuana Brass standards.
The vibe calls for an ambient groove and a DJ spinning unobtrusive
tunes to appeal to the younger bar set.
solanabeachcrush.com //ANN WYCOFF
November2011SanDiegoMagazine.comNC15Budino