66 SanDiegoMagazine.comNovember2011
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aiming their flashlights downward.
What ensues, on a good night, is the
marine version of Close Encounters of the
Third Kind, with these peaceful but
alien creatures emerging from the
blackness to commune with humans,
swooping within inches of your light
to gather their evening meal. The only
challenge is not to inhale seawater
when you gasp with amazement.
KAUAI
Kauai is geographically the oldest of
the main Hawaiian Islands (six million
years, but who’s counting?) and also
the wettest. The combination of
precipitation and time has blessed
Kauai with something in short supply
on the other islands: rivers.
Wailua river is popular for its
easy accessibility (right between Lihue
and Kapaa), inviting a variety of craft,
including larger tourist barges. But
for a more secluded, mist-haunted
kayaking adventure, consider
exploring the Huleia river, which
meanders through a national wildlife
refuge, past an ancient fishpond, and
within a short hike of two hidden
waterfalls. If you hear the strains of a
John Williams score playing in your
mind, it’s because Indiana Jones
memorably escaped a tribe of
headhunters on this river in Raiders of
the Lost Ark. You won’t find
headhunters here—though there are
rumors that Hawaii’s own lost tribe
of tiny Menehune were the architects
of the fish pond—but you may just
find that hint of mystery that only a
river through a jungle can inspire.
THE COFFEE TRAIL
To prepare for an evening of manta diving, you’d better perk up with
the world’s best coffee. Spend a leisurely afternoon exploring south
Kona’s many coffee plantations, some of which offer tours of their
operations, many of which will let you sample a free cup of java. Kona
coffee’s rep for greatness is thanks to the region’s rich, volcanic soil
and ample sun and rain. But, like anything, some folks do it better than
others. Ask around to learn the locals’ favorite producers. If nothing
else, it’ll give you something to chat about over a cup of coffee.
HAWAII
GE TAWAY