6 Carmel Valley
Where sun-kissed
vineyards and farm
fields rustle beside one
another, Carmel Valley
is a peaceful side trip.
At organic Earthbound
Farm (www.ebfarm.com;
7250 Carmel Valley Rd;
h8am-6:30pm Mon-Sat,
9am-6pm Sun; c), sample
the fresh-fruit smoothies
and homemade soups,
or cut your own herbs
in the garden. Several
wineries further east
offer tastings – don’t miss
the pinot noir bottled
by Boekenoogen (www.
boekenoogenwines.com; 24
W Carmel Valley Rd; tasting
fees $5-10; h11am-5pm).
Afterwards, stretch your
legs in Carmel Valley
village, chock-a-block
with genteel cafes and
whimsical shops.
The Drive » Backtrack 2
miles west of the village along
Carmel Valley Rd, then turn
right onto Laureles Grade.
After 6 miles, turn left on Hwy
68, driving west to join Hwy 1
northbound. After passing sand
dunes, suburbs and artichoke
and strawberry fields, Hwy 1
swings back towards the coast.
Turn left onto Moss Landing Rd.
7 Moss Landing
Here’s your last chance
to get out of the car and
meet the local wildlife.
Rent a kayak from
outfitters on Hwy 1 and
paddle past harbor seals
into Elkhorn Slough
National Estuarine
Research Reserve
(%831-728-2822; http://www.
elkhornslough.org; 1700
Elkhorn Rd, Watsonville; adult/
child $2.50/free; h9am-5pm
Wed-Sun), or take a guided
weekend hike and go
bird-watching. From
the fishing harbor at
the ocean end of Moss
Landing Rd, Sanctuary
Cruises (%831-917-1042;
http://www.sanctuarycruises.
com; Moss Landing Harbor
Dock A; adult/child $50/40)
operates year-round
whale-watching and
dolphin-spotting cruises
aboard biodiesel-fueled
boats (make advance
reservations).
5 p175
Start: 6 Carmel Valley
From Salinas farmhands to Monterey cannery workers, the sun-baked Central
Valley hills to the fishing coastline, Nobel Prize–winning author John Steinbeck drew
a perfect picture of the landscapes and communities he knew. See the land and
people of his hometown Salinas, a 25-minute drive east of Monterey on Hwy 68.
Downtown, the National Steinbeck Center (%831-775-4721; http://www.steinbeck.org; 1
Main St; adult/child/youth/senior $11/6/8/9; h10am-5pm; c) brings his novels to life with
interactive exhibits and short movie clips. Look for Rocinante, the camper Steinbeck
drove across America while writing Travels with Charley. An adjunct agriculture
museum showcases the local economy, incorporating historical labor struggles,
water politics and the stories of immigrant farmworkers.
A few blocks west, Steinbeck House (%831-424-2735; http://www.steinbeckhouse.com; 132
Central Ave; hrestaurant 11:30am-2pm Tue-Sat, gift shop 11am-3pm) is the author’s childhood
home. A classic Queen Anne Victorian with dainty bird-patterned lace curtains, it’s
both a minimuseum and a twee restaurant, where waitstaff in quasi-period dress
serve lunch and high tea.
Two miles southeast of downtown, Steinbeck pilgrims can pay their last respects
at Garden of Memories Memorial Park (850 Abbott St). An iron sign points the way
to the Hamilton family plot, where a simple grave marker identifies where some of
Steinbeck’s ashes were buried.
SALINAS
DETOUR:
CENTRAL.CALIFORNIA
15
(^) AROUND MONTEREY & CARMEL