into the cool waters, or
just splash around the
shoreline on a hot day. In
summer, outdoor movies
play after dark by the
campground.4 p355
The Drive » Get back on
Hwy 74 by turning left, heading
northwest to Mountain Center.
After a few miles, veer right
onto Hwy 243 for 4 more
miles, following the signs into
Idyllwild’s town center.6 Idyllwild
Just when you think
you can’t go one more
mile without a break,
traffic slows down as the
scenic byway reaches
the mile-high mountain
hamlet of Idyllwild.
Where Cahuilla people
once camped during
the summer, escaping
from the stifling heat
of the Coachella Valley,
hippies rediscovered
homesteading in the
1960s (acid-tripping
guru Timothy Leary
once owned a ranchnearby). Today Idyllwild
is best known for its arts
scene and live music,
especially its plein-air
art shows and the Jazz
in the Pines festival in
late August. Year-round,
you can stroll the groovy
little downtown village,
brimming with art
galleries, shops, cafes
and alternative-thinkers’
hangouts where crystals
and tarot-card reading
have never gone out of
style. Or you could go
rock climbing, hiking,
mountain biking and
camping in the nearby
forests, where Hollywood
movies have been shot
since the silent-film era.54 p355
The Drive » Resume your
journey northwest on Hwy
243, passing trailheads,
campgrounds and ranger
stations. After less than 10
miles, stop at Indian Vista scenic
overlook before reaching Lake
Fulmor Picnic Area. The highway
drops over Banning Pass, then
rapidly twists and turns downhill
over the next 15 miles to
Banning, the official end of thescenic byway. Merge onto I-10
eastbound.7 Cabazon
Just half dozen miles east
of Banning, you might do
a double take when you
see a giant T. Rex and
apatosaurus standing
on the north side of the
I-10. These concrete
behemoths, the World’s
Biggest Dinosaurs
(%951-922-0076; http://www.
worldsbiggestdinosaurs.com;
50770 Seminole Dr; self-guided
tour adult/child $7/6; husually
10am-5:30pm), were
created in the 1960s by
Claude K Bell, a sculptor
for Knott’s Berry Farm.
Today they’re owned by
Christian creationists.
In the gift shop in the
belly of the brontosaurus,
alongside the sort of
dino-swag you might find
at science museums, you
can read about alleged
hoaxes and fallacies
of Darwinism and the
theory of evolution,
alongside biblical quotes.
Also nearby Cabazon’s
outlet mall and casino,
Hadley Fruit Orchards
(%951-849-5255; http://www.
hadleyfruitorchards.com;
48980 Seminole Dr; h9am-
7pm Mon-Thu, 8am-8pm
Fri-Sun) farmstand makes
a less contentious claim:
they say they invented
hikers’ trail mix.4 p355
TRIP HIGHLIGHTDuring summer, keep the air-con off as you drive
around the desert and climb into the mountains,
to keep your vehicle’s radiator from overheating.
Approaching Idyllwild in winter, tire chains or 4WD
with snow tires may be required. Check current road
conditions before starting out with the California
Department of Transportation (%800-427-7623;
http://www.dot.ca.gov).ALL-WEATHER DRIVING
TOP TIP:
SOUTHERN.CALIFORNIA.34
(^) PALMS TO PINES SCENIC BYWAY