to organic kimchi, this
bounty may seem like an
embarrassment of riches- but not to Waters. ‘We
have to start looking
at food as a right and
not a privilege,’ she says
flatly. ‘That is important.’
Smaller market days
are on Tuesdays and
Thursdays, but if your
trip doesn’t coincide with
a market day, never fear:
35 local food purveyors
are indoors. ‘Inside
there are really quite
exceptional vendors,’ she
says. ‘It’s one of the only
places where you can
get real food all in one
place – real meat, real
chicken, raised at Soul
Food Farm and Prather
Meat. There’s obviously
Cowgirl Creamery and
Acme Bread and McEvoy
Olive Oil.’ When it
comes to McEvoy, she
offers high praise. ‘I just
think they’ve put a lot
of energy into figuring
out what varietals of tree
can grow up there, south
of Petaluma. There are
loads of little boutique
producers of olive oil that
are happening now, but
they’ve set the standard.’
For a self-guided walking
tour of more of San
Francisco, see p58.54 p76
The Drive » From the bustle
of the Ferry Building, head
south on Market St and right on
Valencia, the colorful heart of
the Mission District.6 Mission District
This hip neighborhood
is home to many of the
restaurants by Waters’protégés and has emerged
as one of the most exciting
restaurant hubs in the
city. No place exemplifies
all these qualities as well
as Zuni Café, (%415-552-
2522; http://www.zunicafe.com;
1658 Market St, San Francisco;
mains $15-30; h11:30am-
midnight Tue-Sat, 11am-11pm
Sun), an excellent spot for
mesquite-grilled meats,
brick-oven pizzas and
people watching. This is
a place Waters merrily
refers to as her ‘home
away from home.’ She’ll
quickly admit that it’s
a distinctively different
atmosphere from the
one at Chez Panisse, but
adds, ‘Zuni is run in the
right spirit. It’s real food.’
By the way she offers
these straightforward
compliments – her voice
going from a kind ofStart: 4 Point Reyes National Seashore
The old-growth redwoods at Muir Woods (www.nps.gov/muwo; adult/child under 16 $7/free; (^) h8am-sunset), just 12 miles north of the Golden Gate Bridge, is the closest
redwood stand to San Francisco. The easiest stroll is the gentle 1-mile Main
Trail Loop, which passes 1000-year-old trees at Cathedral Grove and returns
via Bohemian Grove, where the tallest tree in the park stands 254ft high. For
something more challenging, try the 7-mile Dipsea Trail, which climbs over the
coastal range and down to Stinson Beach, cutting through a corner of Muir Woods.
A lovely cafe serves local and organic goodies and hot drinks, but the real reward
here is hiking up to the gorgeous beer garden overlooking Muir Woods and Mt
Tamalpais at the German Tourist Club (www.touristclubsf.org; h1-5pm 1st, 3rd & 4th
weekends of the month), or Nature Friends (Die Naturefreunde).
By car, follow Hwy 1 to Muir Beach, then turn onto Ridge Ave from Panoramic
Hwy, park in the gravel driveway at the end of the road and start the 0.3-mile walk
downhill. You can also hike in on the Sun Trail from Panoramic – a half-hour of
mostly flat trail with views of the ocean and Muir Woods.
For a bit more background on Muir Woods, see p52.
MUIR WOODS
DETOUR:
NORTHERN.CALIFORNIA
4
(^) ALICE WATERS’ CULINARY TOUR