with PA-51 north to Pittsburgh to
complete this 71-mile leg.5 Pittsburgh
Scottish-born immigrant
Andrew Carnegie
made his fortune here
by modernizing steel
production, and his legacy
is still synonymous with
the city and its many
cultural and educational
institutions. However, the
city’s industrial buildings
are now more likely to
house residential lofts and
film production studios
and the city’s abundant
greenery, museums
and sports teams have
long since supplanted
the image of billowing
smokestacks.
Pittsburghers are
proudly over-the-top
obsessive fans of their
hometown sports teams –
the Steelers (football),
Penguins (hockey) and
Pirates (baseball). Ifyou want to fit in, pony
up (around $100) for a
classic Franco Harris or
Mario Lemieux jersey or
the current Pirate all-star
Andrew McCutchen. Keep
in mind that the 6th St/
Roberto Clemente bridge
is closed to vehicular
traffic when the Steelers
and Pirates are in town.
For a taste of the city’s
ethnic texture, head
to the Strip District
just east of downtown
stretching from 14th
to 30th St between the
Allegheny River and
Liberty Ave. Stroll along
Penn Ave from 17th
to 23rd; it’s the city’s
bustling heart, where
one-of-a-kind food
markets like Stamoolis
Brothers, Pennsylvania
Macaroni and Wholey
have been selling goods
in bulk as well as retail
with a heaping of pride
and character for the
past hundred years.Between 10am and
3pm is the best time to
visit; during the holiday
season (when parking is
close to impossible), it’s
especially celebratory
and intoxicating, literally,
as homemade wine is
typically offered for free.
The historic funicular
railroads (one way adult/child
$2.50/1.25; h5:30am-12:40am
Mon-Sat, from 7am Sun), circa
1877, that run up and
down Mt Washington’s
steep slopes afford great
city views, especially at
night. At the start of the
Monongahela Incline is
Station Square, a group
of beautiful, renovated
railway buildings that
now comprise what is
essentially a big ol’ mall
with restaurants and bars.
For a look around
downtown and to check
out Pittsburgh’s North
Shore, follow the walking
tour on p178.54 p165
WRIGHT-EOUS ACCOMMODATION
There’s a frisson of excitement when you’re sleeping in a house designed by a
world famous architect, in this case Frank Lloyd Wright. Part of Polymath Park, a
wooded property with three other homes designed by Wright apprentices, Duncan
House (%877-833-7829; http://www.polymathpark.com; 187 Evergreen Ln, Acme; $400 up to three
people, $50 per person additional, up to six; aW) was taken apart piece by piece from
its original site in Illinois, transported in four trailers 600 miles to Johnstown, PA
and put back together before finally finding its way here and opening to the public
in 2007. Don’t expect Wright pyrotechnics – the house is a modest Usonia-style
design built for just $7000 in 1957. None of the furniture or interior pieces were
designed by Wright but are rather standard mid-century modern furnishings.
If you plan to stay at Duncan House while you’re on this road trip, you can access
it during the drive from Ligonier to Fallingwater. After heading south from Ligonier
for 8.5 miles, make a right onto PA-130 heading west for 3 miles. Then make a left
onto Ridge Rd which turns into Evergreen Rd a little less than 2 miles later. A half-
mile further along you come to Treetops Restaurant where you can check-in.NEW.JERSEY.&.PENNSYLVANIA.TRIPS.13
(^) PITTSBURGH & THE LAUREL HIGHLANDS