modern marketing’ and,
at least as importantly,
the founder of the
Roycroft community in
East Aurora. Unfulfilled
by his financial success
with the Larkin Soap
Co in Buffalo, Hubbard
took up the pen and
became a writer, mostly
of the motivational self-
help genre. Inspired by
William Morris, founder
of the England Arts
& Crafts movement,
Hubbard returned to
western New York and
established his Roycroft
campus here. From 1895
to 1938 it survived as a
mostly self-sustaining
community of talented
artisans and craftspeople;
they produced furniture,
glass, books and
metalwork. The Roycroft
Campus Corporation
(%716-655-0261; http://www.roycroftcampuscorporation.
com; 31 S Grove St; tour $10;
htours Wed, Sat & Sun
Jun-Oct) runs walking
tours of the 14 original
buildings and guides
provide juicy tidbits and
context to Hubbard’s
fascinating life story as
a utopian reformer and
entrepreneur.4 p91
The Drive » NY-78 south to
NY-39 east takes you through
rural countryside on this 41-mile
drive; be sure you’ve filled up on
gas before heading out this way.
The Portageville entrance, in the
southern part of the park, is on
Denton Corners Rd.6 Letchworth State
Park
Only 55 miles southeast
of Buffalo is the little-visited Letchworth State
Park (%585-493-3600;
nysparks.com; Castile; car $8;
h8am-9pm) encompassing
14,500 acres including
the Genesee River
and three magnificent
waterfalls (no swimming
allowed in the river),
the surrounding gorge
and lush forests. There’s
almost two dozen hiking
trails, plus rafting from
the end of April to
October. Driving the 17
miles through the park
from the Mt Morris
entrance (open year-
round) in the far north
to Portageville without
stopping should take
only 30 minutes, and
it’s a very pretty drive.
Camping sites are also
available in the park.4 p91
TRIP HIGHLIGHTNIAGARA FALLS, CANADA
When people say they are visiting the falls they usually mean the Canadian side
which is blessed with superior views. Canada’s Horseshoe Falls are wider and
especially photogenic from Queen Victoria Park; at night they’re illuminated with
a colored light show. However, the city itself, especially the Clifton Hill and Lundy’s
Lane areas, which have grown up around the falls, is the equivalent of a kitschy
beach boardwalk with arcades, a Ripley’s Believe It or Not Museum, indoor water
parks, T-shirt and souvenir shops and fast-food and chain restaurants. Whereas
Niagara on the Lake, 15km to the north, is a small town full of elegant B&Bs and a
famous summertime theater festival.
Crossing the Rainbow Bridge to Canada and returning costs US$3.25/0.50 per
car/pedestrian. There are customs and immigration stations at each end – US
citizens are required to have their passport or an enhanced driver’s license.
Canadian citizens entering the US need one of the following: a passport, a
NEXUS card, a Free and Secure Trade (FAST) card or an enhanced driver’s licence/
enhanced identification card. Driving a rental car from the US over the border
should not be a problem but check with your rental company before you depart.NEW.YORK.TRIPS6
(^) NIAGARA F
ALLS & AROUND