The Food Lab: Better Home Cooking Through Science

(Nandana) #1

chlorophyll development), or one of the purple
varieties, you should look for the same things: firm,
crisp stalks with tight, fully closed budding tips. As
asparagus ages, the petals on the tips will slowly
open up, dry out, or fall off. Asparagus should
appear moist but not wet, fresh-cut, and bright, not
dry or woody.
Your best bet for good asparagus is at a farmers’
market or direct from a farm. Unless your
supermarkets are far, far better than mine, the
asparagus you get in them, even during peak season,
have been out of the earth for far too long to let
their flavor shine. Unless it comes direct from a
farmer, asparagus’s point of origin is always written
either on a label or rubber band affixed to the
bunch. Do me, your farmer, and your taste buds a
favor: if you live in New England, don’t buy
Peruvian asparagus in the middle of May.

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