The Food Lab: Better Home Cooking Through Science

Brassicas—that is, cabbage, broccoli, Brussels sprouts,
cauliflower, and the like—are particular well suited for
searing. They are rich in the sulfurous compounds known as
glucosinolates, and even the slightest bit of overcooking can
cause these chemicals to break down, producing the foul-
smelling odor of long-cooked cabbage or sprouts. It’s what I
always imagined Charlie Bucket’s house smelled like. The
effect is less pronounced in broccoli and cauliflower, but
still rather unpleasant. At the same time those sulfurous
compounds are being released, more desirable, distinctively
sharp mustard-like compounds are being actively destroyed
by an enzyme within the vegetable. This enzyme isn’t
deactivated until it reaches around 180°F or so. In order to
get the best flavor from brassicas, your goal is to get them