The Food Lab: Better Home Cooking Through Science

(Nandana) #1
Swedish steel,  which   is  extremely   sharpenable and will
hold an edge for a long, long time. Although it is
designed for slicing and chopping, the blade has a
strong-enough curve that you can even do some
Western-style rocking with it, giving you the best of
both worlds. Strong, sturdy construction, and plenty of
heft—a real beauty to behold.


  • Cons: Just one: price. It’s not a cheap knife, but
    considering that it will last you a lifetime, $180 seems
    fair.

  • For the small-handed cook: The 7-inch Wüsthof Classic
    Hollow Ground Santoku (about $100). I used this knife
    extensively in restaurants, where precision vegetable
    slicing was required—so much so that it lost a good
    centimeter of its width with repeated sharpenings. I grew
    quite fond of it in the process.

  • Pros: Like all top-of-the-line Wüsthof products, it’s
    impeccably constructed. It has a much more slender
    blade than Western-style Wüsthofs, so it’s easier to
    make small, precise cuts and more comfortable for
    some cooks. The hollow-ground granton edge (with
    dimples along both sides of the blade) means that foods
    like potato slices won’t stick to it.

  • Cons: It’s not big enough for most really heavy-duty
    tasks—say, splitting a butternut squash or hacking
    through a chicken. Luckily, your cleaver will take care
    of that (see here).

  • The best buy option: The MAC Superior 6½-inch
    Santoku (about $75). A favorite among pros and home
    cooks alike.

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