The Food Lab: Better Home Cooking Through Science

(Nandana) #1

If you know the basic rules for burgers (see here), making a
smashed burger is simple.


Rule 1: Use a Stiff, Sturdy Spatula
No flexible spatulas or cheap plastic ones here. You need a
heavy-gauge stainless steel spatula with a fully riveted
handle.


Rule 2: Use a Heavy Stainless Steel or Cast-Iron Skillet
The goal is steady, even heat, so you want to use a relatively
thick pan and allow it to preheat for long enough that there
are no hot or cool spots. I let my pan preheat over medium
heat for a few minutes, pumping it up to high just before I
add the meat.


Rule 3: Smash Early and Smash Firmly
Form anywhere from 2 to 5 ounces of meat into a puck
about 2 inches high, season liberally with salt and pepper,
place it in the preheated skillet, and smash it with the
spatula, using a second spatula to add pressure if necessary.
Then cook, without moving it, until a deep-brown crust
develops. This’ll take about a minute and a half.


Rule 4: Leave No Crust Behind
The whole goal of smashing is to develop a nice browned
crust, so it’s important that you scrape it all up intact when
you flip the burger. Once again, a sturdy metal spatula is
your friend. I find that turning the spatula upside down to
help scrape the crust off is pretty effective. If your crust is
properly developed and your burger properly smashed, it

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