The Food Lab: Better Home Cooking Through Science

(Nandana) #1

rapidly circulate cold air around them. And most air-chilled
chickens also come from reputable producers with humane
standards. If you value crisp skin and good browning on
your chicken (and why shouldn’t you?), you’ll probably
find the extra cost of an air-chilled bird to be a reasonable
exchange.
Turkeys are rarely air-chilled, so you’ll have to take the
extra time to dry them before roasting (see below).


Q: My supermarket carries only water-chilled chickens
and turkeys. Is there anything I can do to get them to
cook better?
Certainly. The key is to remove as much excess moisture as
possible before cooking them. As soon as you take the bird
out of the package, rinse it and blot dry with paper towels
inside and out, then place on a rack (set on a platter or
baking sheet) in the fridge for several hours, or even
overnight. The dry air of the fridge and the air circulation
caused by its fan will help your chicken or turkey shed
excess moisture—though don’t expect it to ever get as crisp
as a truly air-chilled bird.


Q: Once I get my bird home, is there any need to wash it
or rinse it?
If it’s a nice air-chilled bird packaged on a tray or bought
from the butcher and wrapped in paper, there’s no need to
wash it—in fact, all you’re doing by washing it is soaking
the skin, making it harder to cook and reducing its ability to
crisp properly. Birds that come Cryovacked in tight plastic
bags, on the other hand, are soaking in their own dripping

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