The Food Lab: Better Home Cooking Through Science

(Nandana) #1

CHICKEN PARMESAN


Fried breaded chicken cutlets are good enough on their
own, but add some great marinara sauce and a layer of
gooey melted cheese? It’s like extra-crispy meat-based
pizza. Ah, only in America.
And the best part? Chicken Parm is easy. The only
slightly irritating part is the breading. Standard breading
consists of three distinct layers: flour, egg, and bread
crumbs. Here’s what they’re for.



  • Bread crumbs make up the outermost layer, and they
    perform two functions. First, the many nooks and
    crannies formed by the crumbs increases the overall
    surface area of the chicken (see “Fractals, Panko, and
    Bread-Crumb Coatings,” here). It also serves as an
    insulator, preventing the chicken from overcooking and
    drying out. Of course, bread crumbs won’t stick without
    . . .

  • Eggs. They form the adhesive layer, and they’re perfect
    for the job. They start out as a viscous liquid, but as
    they fry, they form a solid gel, ensuring that the crumbs
    stay put. The eggs, however, would have a hard time
    sticking to the food without . . .

  • Flour. Like a coating of primer before you add paint,
    the flour coats the food being breaded and begins to
    absorb some of its moisture, hydrating and forming a
    thin layer of sticky, irregularly lumpy gel. It’s this gel

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