The Food Lab: Better Home Cooking Through Science

(Nandana) #1
Double-acting   baking  powder  gives   you a   second  rise    when
cooked.

The Whites Are Light
So what if baking soda just isn’t doing enough for you?
How do you get your pancakes to stand even taller and
lighter? I like to use a meringue—egg whites that have been
whipped vigorously until they form a semisolid foam.
Here’s how it works:



  • Foam: In the early phases of beating, the proteins in the
    egg whites—mostly globulin and ovotransferrin—begin to
    unfold. Like nerds at a Star Wars convention, they tend to
    gather together and bond in small groups. The whites start
    to incorporate a few bubbles and resemble sea foam.

  • Soft peaks: As the whites are beaten, the groups of
    bonded egg proteins become more and more
    interconnected, eventually creating a continuous network
    of proteins that reinforce the walls of the bubbles you’re
    creating. The whites begin to form soft peaks.

  • Stiff peaks: As you continue to beat, the reinforced

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