The Food Lab: Better Home Cooking Through Science

(Nandana) #1

causes the dough to form many layers that will separate as
they bake, giving you the flakiness you’re after.
For an extra boost of flakiness, I like to go one step
further and make what’s called a laminated pastry: pastry
that has been folded over and over itself to form many
layers. The doughs for classic French laminated pastries like
puff pastry and croissants are folded until they form
hundreds of layers. With my biscuit dough, I’m not quite so
ambitious, but I’ve found that by rolling it out into a square
and folding it into thirds in both directions, you create 9
distinct layers (3 × 3). Roll the resultant package out into a
square again and repeat the process, and you’ve got
yourself a whopping 81 layers (9 × 3 × 3)! How’s that for
flaky?
And guess what: a modern flaky American scone is really
nothing more than a sweetened biscuit cut into a different
shape. Master one, and you’ve mastered the other.

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