four distinct categories: sweet and fresh, hot, rich and fruity,
or smoky (see “Dried Chiles,” here).
For my taste, a combination of chiles from the first three
categories produced the most balanced mix (the smoky
chiles tend to overpower other flavors). Even though chiles
are dried, their flavor can dissipate with time, so it’s
important to get fresh dried chiles. They should have a
leathery quality and still be flexible. If a chile splits or
cracks when you bend it, move along to a different one.
Dried chiles should be stored in a sealed container away
from the light (I keep mine in zipper-lock bags in the pantry
and used within about 6 months of purchase.
Toasting chiles develops flavor.