majority of applications, and any time you’re going
to toast your spices dry, make sure to do it before
grinding them.

DRIED   CHILES

Dried chiles come in range of flavors and heat

levels. To help make selection easier, I’ve broken
them down into a few categories. The ideal chili
should combine elements from several of them.

• Sweet and fresh: Distinct aromas reminiscent of
  red bell peppers and fresh tomatoes. These
  peppers include costeño, New Mexico (aka dried
  Anaheim, California, or Colorado), and
  choricero.


• Hot: Overwhelming heat. The best, like
  cascabels, also have some complexity, while
  others, like pequin or árbol, are all about heat
  and not much else.


• Rich and fruity: Distinct aromas of sun-dried
  tomatoes, raisins, chocolate, and coffee. Some of
  the best-known Mexican chiles, like ancho,
  mulatto, and pasilla, are in this category.


• Smoky: Some chiles, like chipotles (smoked dried
  jalapeños), are smoky because of the way they
  are dried. Others, like nora or guajillo, have a
  natural musty, charred-wood smokiness.