light a fire in an outdoor grill and roast your chiles over the
glowing embers until completely blackened all over. For us
apartment dwellers, roasting them over an open gas flame or
under a broiler works just as well. The goal here is total
carbonization of the exterior. As it heats, the liquid just
under the surface converts to steam, forcing the skin
outward and away from the flesh. This small area of air and
water vapor just under the skin insulates the flesh
underneath, preventing it from burning. After the peppers
are completely blackened, the loosened skin slips right off,
leaving the flesh clean and uncharred but infused with deep
smoky flavor from the charred skin.
The Tomatillos
Even among the less zealous chiliheads out there, tomatillos
are a point of contention. Although tomatillos are a member