The Food Lab: Better Home Cooking Through Science

(Nandana) #1


  •   Immediately after   salting,    the salt    rests   on  the surface of

    the meat, undissolved. All the steak’s juices are still inside
    the muscle fibers. So searing at this stage results in a
    clean, hard sear.



  • Within 3 or 4 minutes, the salt, through the process of
    osmosis, will begin to draw out liquid from the beef, and
    this liquid beads up on the surface of the meat. Try to sear
    at this point, and you waste valuable heat energy simply
    evaporating this pooled liquid. The pan temperature drops,
    your sear is not as hard, and crust development and
    flavor-building Maillard browning reactions are inhibited.

  • At around 10 to 15 minutes, the brine formed by the salt
    dissolving in the meat’s juices will begin to break down
    the muscle structure of the beef, causing it to become
    much more absorptive. Then the brine begins to slowly
    work its way back into the meat.

  • After 40 minutes, most of the liquid has been reabsorbed
    into the meat. A small degree of evaporation has also
    occurred, causing the meat to be ever-so-slightly more
    concentrated in flavor.


Not only that, but I found that even once the liquid has
been reabsorbed, it doesn’t stop there. As the meat
continues to rest past 40 minutes, the salt will slowly work
its way deeper and deeper into its muscle structure, giving
you built-in seasoning beyond just the outer surface you get
if cooking right after salting.
The absolute best steak I had was one that I salted on both
sides and allowed to rest, uncovered, on a rack in the
refrigerator overnight. It appeared to dry out slightly, but

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