The Food Lab: Better Home Cooking Through Science

(Nandana) #1

rib-eye, far more flavorful than a tenderloin, and thicker and
meatier than a skirt or hanger steak, there’s nothing—and I
mean nothing—better on the grill than short ribs.


Also sold as: Kalbi (Korean), Jacob’s Ladder (UK, when cut
across the bones), asado de tira (Argentina).


Where it’s cut from: The ribs (duh). Although short ribs
can be cut numerous ways, they generally come from the
area of the ribs a bit farther down toward the belly than rib
steaks or strip steaks (which come from closer to the back).
When cut into long slabs with bones about 6 to 8 inches in
length, short ribs are referred to as “English cut.” When
sliced across the bones so that each slice has four to five
short sections of bone, they are known as “flanken-style.”


Shopping: Like any meat, short ribs can vary in quality. The
very best come from high up on the ribs, close to where rib-
eye steaks are cut from. The top 6 inches or so is what
you’re looking for. With ribs cut from this region, you’ll
find a bone about 6 inches long, 1½ inches wide, and ½
inch thick, with a slab of meat sitting on top of it about an
inch high.
Some less-scrupulous butchers will sell sections cut from
much lower down on the rib as short ribs. You’ll recognize
these by the skimpy amount of meat on them. Don’t bother
with them, they won’t work at all (unless you’ve got a
couple of hungry dogs). Look for meaty ribs with plenty of
marbleing.
Either English- or flanken-style will work just fine on the

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