The Food Lab: Better Home Cooking Through Science

(Nandana) #1

As with most things, however, not all woks are created
equal. They come in a dizzying array of sizes, shapes,
metals, and handle arrangements. Fortunately for us, the
best woks also happen to be on the inexpensive end of the
scale. Here are some things to consider when purchasing
one.


Materials




  •   Stainless   steel   woks    are a   waste   of  money.  Not only    are

    they extremely heavy and difficult to maneuver, they also
    take a long time to heat up and cool down—a fatal flaw
    for something that requires rapid, on-the-fly heat
    adjustments like a stir-fry. And food—particularly protein
    —has a tendency to stick to steel.



  • Cast iron is a better choice, though it still takes a relatively
    long time to heat up and cool down. It offers a better
    nonstick surface. The main problem with cast iron is that if
    it’s thin, it is extremely fragile—I’ve seen cast-iron woks
    crack in half when set down too hard. And when made
    thick enough to be durable, they are extremely
    cumbersome to lift, which is essential for proper flipping
    during a stir-fry.

  • Carbon steel is your best bet. It heats quickly and evenly,
    is highly responsive to burner input, is both durable and
    inexpensive, and, if properly cared for, will end up with a
    practically nonstick surface. Look for carbon steel woks
    that are at least 14-gauge (about 2 mm thick). They should
    not give when you press on the sides.


Manufacture

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