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Around Galle


Maharagama near Kottawa. Buses run constantly
from 5am to 8pm.


CAR
Galle is an exit on the Southern expressway,
which ends at Matara (30 minutes). it takes about
75 minutes to travel from the Galle entrance to
Kottawa (the current northern terminus and a
short way northeast of Colombo). This saves
at least two hours compared to taking the road
along the west coast. Note that it can take up to
2½ hours to drive from Galle to Bandaranaike
i ternational Airport, but this will shorten as n
additional sections of expressway are opened.


TRAIN
The railway route along the coast from Colombo
Fort to Galle’s vaguely art-deco train station is
easily the most scenic and atmospheric way to
journey between the cities. There are up to 10
express trains a day and they take slightly over
two hours on the recently rebuilt tracks (2nd/3rd
class Rs 180/100). local trains serve hikkaduwa
(2nd/3rd class Rs 40/20, 30 minutes) and Mat-
ara (Rs 80/40, one to 1½ hours). There’s a daily
express to Kandy (Rs 320/175, 6½ hours).


Around Galle

The area around Galle is dotted with sights,
both religious and natural. You can easily visit
several in half a day by tuk-tuk.


Rumassala Peace Pagoda BUDDhiST
On the west end of the peninsula of the same
name, the Rumassala Peace Pagoda was built
by Japanese Buddhist monks of the Mahaya-
na sect in 2005, as part of their scheme to
build peace temples in war-torn places world-
wide (the Sri Lankan war was raging at the
time). The glistening white stupa is easily seen
from Galle Fort and can be reached via a nar-
row 1.6km road along the east end of the bay.
There is another built by the same monks in
Ampara, on the east coast.


Jungle Beach B eACh
One of those ‘secret’ spots it seems everyone
knows about, Jungle Beach is indeed reached
through a tropical forest at the east end of
Galle’s bay. The sand is good and there is
plenty of shade, along with a very basic cafe.
Most drivers know the spot; take the road to
Rumassala Peace Temple for about 1km and
look for the signs.


Kottawa Conservation Forest PARK
(Kottawa) Explore untouched jungle at this
14-hectare wet evergreen forest about 15km
northeast of Galle. There are walking tracks
in the forest, but first get permission from the


forest department office near the gate. Wear
good walking shoes and trousers: the leeches
are ravenous. Trees are identified with their
botanical names. In the small-sized park is a
swimming spot fed by a waterfall.

Yatagala Raja Maha Viharaya BUDDhiST
(donation Rs 100) Just 4km inland from Un-
awatuna, the Yatagala Raja Maha Viharaya
is a quiet rock temple with a 9m reclining
Buddha. The mural-covered walls are paint-
ed in the typical style of the Kandyan period.
Monks have been living here for at least 1500
years. You’ll seldom find crowds here, which
only adds to the appeal. As you ascend the
long flights of stairs, there are good views over
the rice fields.

Unawatuna


% 091
Unawatuna is a cautionary tale for the rest of
Sri Lanka’s south coast. Where there was once
a flawless crescent of golden sand that swept
along a palm-lined shore with turquoise
waters that had just enough surf to make for
ideal swimming conditions, there is now one
of Sri Lanka’s less appealing beach towns.
The beautiful water is still there and you
can still find decent patches of sand, but in
several places greed has replaced good taste
and common sense. Bulldozers have pushed
huge boulders right up to and beyond the
high tide line, allowing for the construction
of some especially ugly hotels and cafes. Iron-
ically, authorities have actually enforced set-
backs on the west half of Unawatuna’s beach
and the result is much more salubrious.
Unawatuna makes for a good, quick beach
escape from Galle’s Fort: it’s only 6km south-
east. Otherwise it offers a cheap and cheerful
sandy idyll, at least on the bulldozer- and
boulder-free west end.

2 Activities
Most people spend a lot of their time lying
around the beach or slouching in cafes. The
small Buddhist temple at the west end of
the beach has a vigilant monk ready to chase
away anyone who is hoping to feign some pie-
ty in return for a shady rest.

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oYoga with Asiri YOGA
(%077 176 4662; 6 Wella Dewala Rd; sessions from Rs
1000) The namesake owner of this yoga studio
has become something of a legend with yoga
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