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AWATUNA
quarrelsome monkeys leaping about in the
trees.Weliwatta House GU eSThOUSe $$
(%222 6642; http://www.weliwattahouse.com; Yaddehimul-
la Rd; r with fan/air-con from US$35/50; aW) This
attractive century-old buttercup-yellow villa
has loads more character than most of its
competition. It has a couple of spacious and
tidy rooms with hot-water bathrooms in the
main building, and newer and more comfort-
able rooms behind. Enjoy relaxing in the lush
garden in a comfy chair with a cold drink.Secret Garden GU eSThOUSe $$
(%224 1857; http://www.secretgardenunawatuna.com; off
Wella Dewala Rd; r US$50-135; aW) Creak open
the door and, like the name suggests, step
into hidden gardens featuring a riot of col-
ourful flowers. This renovated 140-year-old
house has a range of rooms that are colour
coordinated with the posies outside. Besides
the four rooms, there are two good-value
bungalows. Various yoga and Ayurvedic ses-
sions are on offer.Nooit Gedacht hiSTORiC hOTel $$
(%222 3449; http://www.nooitgedachtheritage.com;
Galle–Matara Rd; r US$45-80; aiWs) At the
heart of this compound is an atmospheric
1735 Dutch colonial mansion, which is slight-
ly tumbledown but perfectly enchanting.
Rooms are divided between an old wing and
newish two-story block (the latter have out-
side seating areas). There’s a well-regarded
Ayurvedic treatment centre and two pools.Palm Grove GU eSThOUSe $$
(%225 0104; http://www.palmgrovesrilanka.com; off Wella
Dewala Rd; r with/without air-con from US$40/35;
aW) Rummage through the masses ofhouseplants and hanging baskets and you’ll
discover a little English-run gem of a guest-
house. The four spacious rooms are very
comfortable and have nice, private outdoor
porches. Upstairs is a roof terrace filled with
hammocks.Dream House GU eSThOUSe $$
(%438 1541; http://www.dreamhouseunawatuna.com;
off Yaddehimulla Rd; r US$50/65; W) Set well
back from the hustle of the beach, this
Italian-owned house has four intimate rooms
that have been restored and decorated in a
Rome-meets-the-tropics fusion. It’s got a
large terrace that’s great for relaxing while
you count the monkeys leaping overhead.Villa Hotel hOTel $$
(%224 7253; http://www.villa-unawatuna.com; Wella
Dewala Rd; r US$60-70; aiW) A waterfront
hotel built in a vaguely traditional, but very
tall, style. The twirling wooden window slats
have an Arabic feel and the interiors of the
rooms are attired in Indian art and ancient
furnishings. The highlight is the garden full
of ornate 1920s English garden furniture.Primrose Guest House GU eSThOUSe $$
(%222 4679, 077 607 4428; http://www.primrose.wz.cz;
Yaddehimulla Rd; r with/without air-con from
US$40/35; aW) This bright three-storey
guesthouse is close to the beach. The tidy
and spacious rooms are well maintained;
each has a little balcony overlooking a mass
of bamboo plants.Black Beauty Guest House GU eSThOUSe $$
(%077 658 2909; http://www.black-beauty-sri-lanka.
com; Galle–Matara Rd; r fan/air-con from US$27/33;
aiWs) The tranquil gardens feature a
pool, and the bright-orange tower of a guest-HIGH TIDE HIGHJINKS
After the 2004 tsunami, laws were passed forbidding construction within 100m of the high
tide line on any beach. Unfortunately, a quick drive along any part of Sri Lanka’s developed
coastal areas will show that the law has been widely ignored. This is especially apparent on
the south coast, where the tsunami’s destruction was so complete that most structures date
from the last decade.
While places such as the east end of Unawatuna’s beach have suffered greatly from
developments built not only up to the ocean’s edge but right out into the water, there are
examples for all to see of the many positive benefits of the setback rule. To the surprise of
many, regional authorities swooped in on the west end of Unawatuna in 2011 and demol-
ished several offending structures. The result is a greatly improved beach for one and all (the
cafes which rebuilt in compliance with the law now enjoy good business from beach-goers
drawn to the unspoiled sand).
And rumours continue that the government could again take decisive action against of-
fending properties at any time. Other areas where demolitions have been discussed include
Mirissa and Hikkaduwa.