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i nternet access, and a good place to arrange
tour and car-hire services.
8 Getting There & Away
Coming by bus from Galle (Rs 20, 10 minutes)
you can get off at small Wella Dewala Rd at the
122 Km marker, which leads into town, or get off
at the next stop, where the ocean meets the main
road, and walk in along the beach (when the tide is
down and you can get past the landfill boulders).
A three-wheeler to or from Galle costs between
Rs 400 and 500.Koggala Unawatuna to
% 091
Beyond Unawatuna, the road runs close to the
coast through Thalpe, Dalawella and Koggala,
and on to Ahangama and beyond. This is posh
country, with beautiful albeit narrow beaches
and a long stretch of walled estates and ho-
tels. Along this part of the coast you will see
stilt fishermen perching precariously like
storks above the waves at high tide. Each
fisherman has a pole firmly embedded in the
sea bottom, close to the shore, on which they
perch and cast their lines. Stilt positions are
passed down from father to son and are high-
ly coveted. You’ll be amazed at how fast they
can get off those stilts and run up to you for
payment if you even vaguely wave a camera in
their direction.1 ights & ActivitiesS
oMartin Wickramasinghe
Folk Art Museum MUSeUM
(off Galle–Matara Rd; admission Rs 200; h9am-
5pm) This surprisingly interesting museum
includes the house where respected Sinhalese
author Martin Wickramasinghe (1890–1976)
was born. The exhibits are well displayed,
with information in English. Among them is
a good section on dance (including costumes
and instruments), puppets, kolam (masked
dance-drama) masks (including one of a very
sunburnt British officer), kitchen utensils
and carriages. Don’t miss the kitchen goods,
including the multipurpose ‘mill stone’. Look
for the turn near the 131 Km marker, across
from the Fortress Hotel. The bookshop sells
Wickramasinghe’s works, which are lauded
for their exploration of local cultures and the
roots of all the people on the island.Koggala Lake lAKe
Next to the road, Koggala Lake is alive with
birdlife and dotted with islands, one of which
features a Buddhist temple that attracts
many visitors on poya (full moon) days andanother that contains an interesting cinna-
mon plantation.
You can take a 90-minute boat tour of
the lake and islands for about Rs 4000 in a
four-passenger motor boat. Besides the main
sights, you’ll stop at a small island village and
see a lot of birds (hawks, herons, egrets etc).
Look for the Bird Island Boat Tours sign just
east of the 132 Km marker.Kataluwa Purwarama Temple BUDDhiST
Rarely crowded, this feels like the temple
time forgot. Dating from the 13th century, it
has some recently restored murals, includ-
ing some large ones depicting foreigners in
flowing robes. A friendly monk will open the
building and explain the murals. Some of the
painted Jataka tales (stories from the Bud-
dha’s lives) are 200 years old. Turn inland and
drive for 1.2km right at the 134 Km marker.4 leeping & EatingS
4 Thalpe
Thalpe is popular with those looking for a
more sedate alternative to Unawatuna. There
are a number of very exclusive places to stay
as well as a few cheaper options. The beach is
largely hidden from the road by a solid line
of villas, houses and hotels, each with thick
walls and massive gates. Many beach rentals
can be found here.oFrangipani Tree BOUTiQUe hOTel $$$
(%228 3711; http://www.thefrangipanitree.com; Galle–
Matara Rd; ste from US$250; aWs) Cement, of
all things, is the basis for this starkly modern
vision of contemporary architecture on the
beach. There are nine suites in three beach
houses here and you can pick various sizes. All
have soaring ceilings, private verandahs and
views of the ocean. The narrow beach is the
very picture of a palm-shaded cliche.Why House BOUTiQUe hOTel $$$
(%222 7599; http://www.whyhousesrilanka.com; off Galle–
Matara Rd; r from US$250; aWs) Well, why
not? You’ll feel like you’re staying at a private
estate at this small hotel set inland in a green
respite. Rooms are in the colonial main house
or cottages. Personal service is emphasised,
children are catered to and all manner of
meals can be prepared. Look for the turn off
the main road at the 124 Km marker.Era Beach Hotel BOUTiQUe hOTel $$$
(%228 2302; http://www.jetwinghotels.com; Galle–Matara
Rd; r US$90-200; aWs) Small boutique hotel
where wood and stone create a Zen-like sense