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of Weligama, and is another quickly develop-
ing crescent of beach.
Modest guesthouses abound and there are
a string of simple cafes along the sand that
seem to come and go with the tides. So far the
government has stopped the kinds of sand-
encroaching construction as seen at Un-
awatuna, but only time will tell as visitor
numbers just keep growing.
You’ll need to go to Weligama or Matara for
most services, although there are internet and
phone places, and small markets near the 149
Km marker.1 ights & ActivitiesS
The west end of Mirissa’s beach is the nic-
est and is separated from the main road by
streets lined with guesthouses. As the sand
curves gently around to the east, it meets up
with the roar of the Galle–Matara road. How-ever, there is also a much-photographed tiny
peninsula of sand at this end which juts out to
a tiny island you can walk to at low tide.
There are some pleasant walks. One heads
up a steep series of steps from the main road
to the small Kandavahari temple, while the
headland is a good spot to view Weligama Bay.
Mirissa Harbour, across the peninsula from
the west end of the beach, is always buzzing
with boats.
The one very popular activity is a
whale-watching boat trip.Secret Root Spa S PA
(%077 329 4332; http://www.secretroot.yolasite.com; off
Galle–Matara Rd; massage Rs 2500 per hr) Secret-
ed away at the end of a jungle lane, 200m
inland from the east end of the beach, is this
family-run sanctuary of calm. It’s an Ayurve-
dic centre (male masseurs only) where your
big release will be your tension.BLUE WHALE TOURS
Only in recent years have marine biologists realised that blue whales – the world’s largest
living mammal – are remarkably similar to many holidaying humans: they like Sri Lanka’s
coast. In fact, the waters off Mirissa and Dondra Head to the east often host some of the
world’s largest number of blue whales. (On the east coast, Trincomalee is another excellent
place for blue whale spotting.)
The stats for blue whales are as extraordinary as their size: 30m long and weighing 170
tonnes (which makes them heavier than any known dinosaur by a significant amount). They
are thought to live for more than 80 years, but this is not well understood as research has
been scant, primarily because there were so few blues whales left after whaling finally ended
in the 1970s (maybe 5000 whales were in the world’s oceans then, 1% of the population just
200 years before).
Mirissa-based boat tours to spot blue whales are a major draw for visitors and there are
many competing operators. Besides the blues, it’s common to spot their smaller cousins,
sperm whales (20m long, 57 tonnes), and various dolphins. A few points to consider:̈ (^) Although blue whales have been spotted throughout the year, December and April seem
to be the peak months.
̈ Avoid May to July as monsoon season makes the waters very rough.
̈ Tours usually depart at 6.30am and last about two to seven hours, depending on how long
it takes to find whales. This can make for a long day if seas are rough.
̈ Established tour boats have at least two levels for viewing, plus proper toilet facilities.
̈ (^) Look for tours which respect international conventions about approaching whales. Ask
about this before you book.
̈ (^) Avoid rogue operators or chartered fishing boats as many of these are known to harass
whales, for example by boxing one animal between two boats.
̈ (^) Ask about food and drink availability. Find out if there are binoculars for passengers’ use.
Recommended operators include the following:
Raja and the Whales (%077 695 3452; http://www.rajaandthewhales.com; Mirissa harbour; adult/
child Rs 6000/3000) Uses a two-level trimaran for trips, follows international guidelines for
approaching whales.
Paradise Beach Club (%225 1206; http://www.paradisebeachmirissa.com; Gunasiri himi St; tours
US$50) The small beach resort runs its own tours on a good, custom-built boat.