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places for snacks and drinks on the sand; all
accommodations have their own cafes.
Secret Bay Hotel GU eSThOUSe $$
(%438 1089; http://www.secretbayhotel.jimdo.com; off
Matara–Tangalla Rd; r from US$60; aW) Set
well back from the beach, this guesthouse
has rooms split between humble bungalows
(best) and a rather looming three-storey
main building. Decor is simple but accented
with vivid blues to reflect the bay. The top-
floor restaurant has sweeping views.
Talalla Retreat R eSORT $$$
(%225 9171; http://www.talallaretreat.com; off Matara–
Tangalla Rd; r with shared bath from US$60, r with
private bath US$85-130; Ws) This unassuming
resort is about a 100m walk from the beach.
Half the rooms are open-plan, allowing you
to live an alfresco life of outdoor showers and
nights peering at the stars. The other rooms
are more enclosed. Yoga courses are available,
the restaurant serves organic food and there’s
a 20m pool in the middle of the expansive
grounds.
Dikwella
% 041
Little more than a wide spot in the road with
a few shops useful to locals, Dikwella – 22km
east of Matara – is close to a couple of inter-
esting sights and some fine beachfront hotels.
1 ights & ActivitiesS
oWewurukannala Vihara BUDDhiST
(Wewurukannala Rd; admission Rs 100; hdawn-
dusk) A 50m-high seated Buddha figure – the
largest in Sri Lanka – is a highlight of this
temple, which is often thronged with wor-
shippers. Before reaching the Buddha you
pass through a hall of horrors full of life-sized
models of demons and sinners. The pun-
ishments depicted include being dunked in
boiling cauldrons, sawn in half and disem-
bowelled. The temple is 1.5km inland from
Dikwella, towards Beliatta.
Ho-o-maniya Blowhole lANDMARK
(admission Rs 250; hdawn to dusk) Do you feel
lucky? The Ho-o-maniya blowhole is some-
times spectacular and other times a fizzle.
During the southwest monsoon (June is the
best time), high seas can force water 23m up
through a natural chimney in the rocks and
then up to 18m in the air. At other times the
blowhole will leave you limp. From the park-
ing area, its a 300m up-and-down walk past
numerous vendors.
Driving, look for the 1km-long access road
about 6km northeast of Dikwella, just west of
the 186 Km marker.4 leeping & EatingS
This low-key stretch of coast features some
beautiful beaches in perfect little coves off
the main road.oDickwella Beach Hotel hOTel $$
(%225 5522; http://www.dickwellabeach.lk; 112 Mahawela
Rd; r fan/air-con from US$30/60; aW) This fam-
ily-run beachfront hotel is a real find. Rooms
have a certain vintage charm but are basic.
However, everything is clean and well-run.
You’ll enjoy the ocean views through the
cross-hatched coconut palms, while the only
real noise here is the sea itself. Look for the
turn off on the main road about 1km east of
Dikwella.Surya Garden
Guest House BOUTiQUe hOTel $$
(%077 714 7818; http://www.srilanka-vacanze.com;
Pubudu Mawatha; r from US$65) Sri Lankan
charm meats Italian flair at this personable
little place, set on large shady grounds 100m
back from an idyllic beach. The three cabanas
here have a mud-hut-meets-high-style motif
and feature lovely decor and outdoor bath-
rooms. The excellent restaurant serves local
and Italian dishes. Look for the turn at the
189 Km marker.Goyambokka
% 047
The beautiful little coves around Goyambok-
ka, with their turquoise waters and gentle
waves, are almost a cliché of what tropical
beaches are supposed to look like. Look for
narrow Goyambokka Road just west of the
194 Km marker. Any bus travelling between
Matara and Tangalla will drop you at the
turnoff. A three-wheeler from Tangalla bus
station costs Rs 400.4 leeping & EatingS
Quiet, leafy Goyambokka Road, behind the
shore, is lined with several guesthouses and
hotels, although they are widely scattered
and the overall atmosphere is much more
natural than commercial. At the main beach
below Palm Paradise Cabanas you’ll find a
few shacky beach cafes.