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bus stations and restaurants. History and cul-
ture are on tap, and 115km from the capital
and at an altitude of 500m, Kandy offers a
cooler and more relaxed climate.
Kandy served as the capital of the last Sin-
halese kingdom, which fell to the British in
1815 after defying the Portuguese and Dutch
for three centuries. It took the British another
16 tough years to finally build a road linking
Kandy with Colombo. The locals still proudly
see themselves as a little different – and per-
haps a tad superior – to Sri Lankans from the
island’s lower reaches.
Kandy is renowned for the great Kandy
Esala Perahera, held over 10 days leading up
to the Nikini poya (full moon) at the end of
the month of Esala (July/August), but it has
enough attractions to justify a visit at any
time of year. Some of the Hill Country’s nicest
boutique hotels nestle in the hills surround-
ing Kandy, and the city is a good base for ex-
ploring the underrated terrain of the nearby
Knuckles Range.
1 Sights
Kandy Lake lAKE
(map p 146 ) Dominating the town is Kandy
Lake. A leisurely stroll around it, with a few
stops on the lakeside seats, is a pleasant way
to spend a few hours, although buses careen-
ing around the southern edge of the lake can
mar the peace somewhat. The nicest part to
walk along is the area around the Temple of
the Sacred Tooth Relic. Due to some reports
of harassment, single women should not walk
here alone after dark.
The lake is artificial and was created in
1807 by Sri Wickrama Rajasinha, the last ruler
of the kingdom of Kandy. Several minor local
chiefs protested because their people objected
to labouring on the project. In order to stop
the protests they were put to death on stakes
in the lake bed. The central island was used
as Sri Wickrama Rajasinha’s personal harem.
Later the British used it as an ammunition
store and added the fortress-style parapet
around the perimeter. On the south shore, in
front of the Malwatte Maha Vihara, the circu-
lar enclosure is the monks’ bathhouse.
Temple of the
Sacred Tooth Relic BUDDHiST TEmPlE
(Sri Dalada maligawa; map p 146 ; adult/child Rs
1000/free, video camera Rs 300, World Buddhism
museum admission Rs 500; htemple 5.30am-
8pm, puja 5.30-6.45am, 9.30-11am & 6.30-8pm,
World Buddhism museum 8am-7pm, Sri Dalada mu-
seum 7.30am-6pm) Just north of the lake, the
THE HISTORY OF THE TOOTH
The sacred tooth of the Buddha is said to have been snatched from the flames of the
Buddha’s funeral pyre in 483 BC and smuggled into Sri Lanka during the 4th century
AD, hidden in the hair of a princess. At first it was taken to Anuradhapura, then it moved
through the country on the waves of Sri Lankan history before ending up at Kandy. In
1283 it was carried back to India by an invading army but it was retrieved by King Par-
akramabahu III.
The tooth gradually grew in importance as a symbol of sovereignty, and it was believed
that whoever had custody of the tooth relic had the right to rule the island. In the 16th
century the Portuguese apparently seized the tooth, took it away and burnt it with devout
Catholic fervour in Goa. Not so, say the Sinhalese. The Portuguese had actually stolen
a replica tooth while the real incisor remained safe. There are still rumours that the real
tooth is hidden somewhere secure, and the tooth kept here is only a replica.
The Temple of the Sacred Tooth Relic was constructed mainly under Kandyan kings
from 1687 to 1707 and from 1747 to 1782, and the entire temple complex was part of the
Kandyan royal palace. The imposing pinky-white structure is surrounded by a moat. The
octagonal tower in the moat was built by Sri Wickrama Rajasinha and used to house an
important collection of ola (talipot-palm leaf) manuscripts. This section of the temple
was heavily damaged in the 1998 bomb blast.
The main tooth shrine – a two-storey rectangular building known as the Vahahitina
Maligawa – occupies the centre of a paved courtyard. The eye-catching gilded roof over
the relic chamber was paid for by Japanese donors. The 1998 bomb exposed part of the
front wall to reveal at least three layers of 18th- to 20th-century paintings depicting the
perahera (procession) and various Jataka tales (stories of the Buddha’s previous lives).
Sri Lankan Buddhists believe they must complete at least one pilgrimage to the temple
in their lifetime, as worshipping here improves one’s karmic lot immeasurably.