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1 Sights
Aluvihara MoNAStErY
(admission rs 250, workshop payment by donation;
h6.30am-6.30pm) Set in a chasm in the hills,
surrounded by giant boulders, this monastery
is an intriguing site. There’s a unique series
of monastic caves, some spectacular religious
paintings and a stupa or two. It’s easily acces-
sible ( just off the road, 3km north of Matale).
Legend has it that a giant used three of the
rocks as a base for his cooking pot, and the
name Aluvihara (Ash Monastery) refers to the
ashes from the cooking fire.
̈ Reclining Buddha Cave
The first cave you come to contains a 10m
reclining Buddha and impressive lotus-
pattern murals on the ceiling. Another is
filled with cartoon-like murals of the realms
of hell – if you’re considering straying from
the straight and narrow, you may think
twice after seeing the statues of devils met-
ing out an inventive range of punishments
to sinners in the afterlife. One scene shows
a sexual sinner with his skull cut open and
his brains being ladled out by two demons.
̈ Buddhaghosa Cave
Up a flight of rock steps is a cave dedicated
to Buddhaghosa, the Indian scholar who is
supposed to have spent several years here
while working on the Tipitaka. Although
histories affirm that Buddhaghosa lived
in Anuradhapura in the 6th century AD,
there’s no clear evidence he stayed at Aluvi-
hara. Nonetheless the cave walls are painted
with scenes showing Buddhaghosa working
on ola (palm-leaf ) manuscripts.
̈ Summit
Stairs continue to the summit of the rock
bluff, where you’ll find a dagoba and sweep-
ing views of the surrounding valley. To the
west, atop a rocky outcrop 150m above the
monastery, is a seated golden Buddha offer-
ing protection and blessings with an abhaya
(palm facing-outward) gesture.
̈ Workshop
The Tipitaka was first transcribed from
oral and Sinhalese sources into Pali text by
a council of monks held at Aluvihara in the
1st century BC. Two thousand years later,
in 1848, the monks’ library was destroyed
by British troops putting down a revolt.
The long process of replacing the ola man-
uscripts still occupies monks, scribes and
craftspeople today. You can see their work-
shop (a donation includes having your name
inscribed on a small length of ola).
A three-wheeler from Matale to Aluvihara
will cost about Rs 500 return, including
waiting time; the bus fare is Rs 10.
Matale Heritage Centre CUltUrAl CENtrE
(%222 2404; 33 Sir richard Aluvihara Mawatha;
h9am-4pm Mon-Sat) F This crafts cen-
tre draws on the rich traditions of the area,
producing quality batik, embroidery, carpen-
try and brasswork. It occupies a sprawling
compound of bungalows, workshops and gar-
dens up in a forest. The centre’s kitchen does
meals for groups of four (book by phone a day
ahead); it costs Rs 1000 per person for a ban-
quet of many rices and curries.
It’s located 2km north of Matale, up a side
road off the A9 highway. A three-wheeler from
Matale will cost about Rs 400 return, includ-
ing waiting time.
Sri Muthumariamman
Thevasthanam HINDU tEMPlE
(admission rs 200; h6am-1pm, 4-8pm) Just
north of the bus stop for Kandy (at the north
end of town) is this interesting Hindu tem-
ple. A priest will show you the five enormous,
colourful ceremonial chariots pulled along by
people during an annual festival.
4 leeping & EatingS
There’s no compelling reason to stay in Ma-
tale but there are a couple of decent options.
Sesatha Hotel GUES tHoUSE $
(%223 1489; [email protected]; 40 Kohombili-
wela; r rs 2800-4000; aW) An elegant, modern
place with rice-field views from the balconies
of the rooms. The gardens are a delight, dot-
ted with palm trees and overlooked by the
restaurant tables. Sesatha is 1.5km south of
town, about 200m off the main road.
oJim’s Farm Villas loDGE $$$
(%077 782 8395; http://www.jimsfarmvillas.com; 3km
west of Madawala Ulpotha; s/d/tr US$100/125/150;
aWs) (^) S In the misty, verdant hills north
of Matale, at an elevation of 450m, this work-
ing organic farm (harvesting coconuts, man-
goes, bananas and papaya) is owned by an
Englishman and run on an environmentally
sustainable basis. Rooms (divided between
two villas, with a third under construction)
are beautiful, with attractive wooden furni-
ture, Egyptian-cotton bed linen and generous
balconies or verandahs.
The cooking is exceptional and meals
(US$10 to US$20) are eaten communally. It’s
20km north of Matale.