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beautifully appointed rooms and there’s an in-
finity pool overlooking the Kandalama Wewa.
Seriously consider dropping by for a meal
if you’re not a guest; the setting and dining
experience are what memories are made of.
Wildlife encountered in the hotel grounds
includes monkeys and deer, and birdwatch-
ing walks can be organised. It’s 11km east of
Dambulla.
Amaya Lake r ESort HotEl $$$
(%446 8100; http://www.amayaresorts.com; villas from
US$130; aiWs) The Amaya Lake complex
has over a hundred stylish villas set in mag-
nificent landscaped grounds. The scale of the
place will suit those looking for the full resort
hotel experience, as the facilities are superb
(including tennis courts, a gorgeous pool and
a spa). Expect evening entertainment and
buffet banquets. It’s 9km east of Dambula.
Bentota Restaurant S rI lANKAN $
(Anuradhapura rd; mains from rs 300; h8am-8pm;
a) In the town centre, this ever-reliable local
chain offers good short eats, and tasty rice and
curry.
Dambulla Heritage
Resthouse Cafe CAFE $$
(Kandy rd; mains rs 600-1000; W) A lovely
cafe-restaurant, all monochrome photo-
graphs and period furniture, that’s perfect
for everything from a cappuccino and a piece
of gateau to delicious meals like pot-roasted
chicken (Rs 595) and lake fish (Rs 550).
There’s a good wine selection.
8 Getting There & Around
Dambulla is 72km north of Kandy on the road to
Anuradhapura. the junction with the Colombo–
t rincomalee road (A6) is in the centre of town.
t he closest train station is in Habarana, 23km
north. Frequent buses run from the bus terminal:
Anuradhapura rs 88, two hours, every 45
minutes
Colombo rs 150, five hours, every 30 minutes
Kandy rs 80, two hours, every 30 minutes
Polonnaruwa rs 78, 1¾ hours, every 45 minutes
Sigiriya rs 30, 45 minutes, every 45 minutes
t hree-wheelers cost rs 100 to 150 around town.
Be aware that commission-hungry drivers will
attempt to steer you to favoured places to stay.Sigiriya
%066 / POP 1800
Rising from the central plains, the iconic
rocky outcrop of Sigiriya is perhaps Sri
Lanka’s single most dramatic sight. Near-vertical walls soar to a flat-topped summit
that contains the ruins of an ancient civilisa-
tion, thought to be once the epicentre of the
short-lived kingdom of Kassapa, and there are
spellbinding vistas across mist-wrapped for-
ests in the early morning.
Sigiriya refuses to reveal its secrets easily,
and you’ll have to climb a series of vertiginous
staircases attached to sheer walls to reach the
top. On the way you’ll pass a series of quite re-
markable frescoes and a pair of colossal lion’s
paws carved into the bedrock. The surround-
ing landscape – lily-pad-covered moats, water
gardens and quiet shrines – and the excellent
site museum, only add to Sigiriya’s rock-star
appeal.History
Peppered with natural cave shelters and rock
overhangs – supplemented over the centuries
by numerous hand-hewn additions and mod-
ifications – Sigiriya may have been inhabited
in prehistoric times.
The established historical theory is that
the rock formation served royal and military
functions during the reign of King Kassapa
(AD 477–495), who built a garden and palace
on the summit. According to this theory, King
Kassapa sought out an unassailable new res-
idence after overthrowing and murdering his
own father, King Dhatusena of Anuradhapura.
However, in recent years some archaeolo-
gists have challenged this viewpoint and
believe Sigiriya was not a fortress-palace but a
monastery and religious site.
After the 14th century the complex was
abandoned. British archaeologist HCP Bell
rediscovered the ruins in 1898, which were
further excavated by British explorer John
Still in 1907.
Unesco declared Sigiriya a World Heritage
Site in 1982.1 Sights
Sigiriya (www.ccf.lk/sigiriya.htm; adult/child
US$30/15; htickets 8.30am-5.30pm) is an ar-
chaeological site. Shorts are fine and a sarong
is not necessary. Expect a visit to take at least
half a day.
To avoid the fiercest heat, get as early a
start as possible. A good strategy is to head
straight for the rock itself so you’re climbing
Sigiriya in the relative cool of the morning.
The ascent involves steep climbs, so if you’re
not fit it may be tough. There’s no shade on
the exposed summit so a hat is recommend-
ed. Then later in the morning you can amble
around the gardens and tour the museum.