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Tourist Police (%222 3099; Batticaloa rd) In
the old town at the main traffic circle.
8 Getting There & Away
BUS
Polonnaruwa’s main bus station is in Kaduruwela,
4km east of old town on Batticaloa rd. Buses to
and from the west pass through old town, but to
make sure you get a seat, start at Kaduruwela.
Buses are frequent until about 4pm on main
routes, which include:
Anuradhapura rs 128, three hours
Colombo regular/air-con rs 250/440, six hours
Dambulla via Habarana rs 77, 1½ hours
Kandy regular/air-con rs 88/175, three hoursTRAIN
Polonnaruwa is on the Colombo–Batticaloa rail-
way line and is about 30km southeast of Gal oya,
where the line splits from the Colombo–trinco-
malee line. the train station is in Kaduruwela.
t rains include the following:
Batticaloa 1st/2nd/3rd class rs 280/150/85,
2½ hours, five daily
Colombo 1st/2nd/3rd class rs 700/420/265,
six to seven hours, two daily8 Getting Around
Frequent buses (rs 10) link old town and Ka-
duruwela. three-wheeler drivers ask for rs 200
or more.
Bicycles are great for getting around Polon-
naruwa’s monuments, which are surrounded by
shady woodland. Most guesthouses rent bikes for
r s 200 to 350 per day, or scooters for rs 1500.
t he waterside Potgul Mawatha (lake rd) is a
beautiful ride, taking you along the shores of the
Parakrama Samudra tank.Giritale
%027 / POP 8200
Northwest of Polonnaruwa on the Habarana
road, Giritale is a sleepy, spread-out settle-
ment alongside the impressive 7th-century
Giritale Tank. It’s essentially a rural commu-
nity, with a few places to stay (all 7km to 15km
from Polonnaruwa). It makes a good base for
visiting both the ruins of Polonnaruwa and
Minneriya National Park.4 Sleeping
There’s a growing selection of accommoda-
tion in the Giritale area.Lak Nilla H oMEStAY $
(%077 911 5265, 224 6808; [email protected];
r rs 2500; aW) A very simple but hospita-ble homestay with three clean rooms in a
friendly local’s house, in a village setting off
the highway. A sumptious dinner costs Rs 650
and bikes can be hired and safaris set up. It’s
around 10km northwest of Polo.oRice Villa Retreat GUES tHoUSE $$
(%077 630 2070; http://www.letsgolankatours; 21 mile
post, Polonnaruwa rd, Jayanthipura; s rs 4000-
4500, d rs 4500-5000; aiW) A memorable
place to stay, this beautifully located guest-
house enjoys an idyllic position overlooking
an expanse of rice paddies. Bungalows are
well-appointed, with modern bathrooms and
contemporary design touches. After a hot day
travelling, the spa – offering treatments and
massages – is very tempting indeed. But best
of all, the hospitality from the family owners
is warm and genuine.
Add Rs 1000 if you want air-conditioning.
Meals are excellent and cooking classes are of-
fered. Reserve in advance and arrange a pick-
up from the Giritale bus stop, which is 3.5km
to the east.Nikawewa Eco Lodge loDGE $$
(%077 630 2070; http://www.letsgolankatours; r rs 4500-
5500; W) A new venture by the owner of the
excellent Rice Villa Retreat nearby, these
stilted treehouses with private bathroom and
forest views are the perfect escape for those
that yearn for a rustic, natural environment.
Wild elephants pass close by (rainy season
is the best time to view them). Forest treks,
walking and cycling trips and cooking class-
es are offered. Meals are a highlight, with Sri
Lankan and Western breakfasts (Rs 500) and
many local dishes to sample for dinner (from
Rs 750). Call for a pickup.Giritale Hotel HotEl $$
(%224 6311; http://www.giritalehotel.com; r from US$82;
aiWs) There was lots of updating going
on when we dropped by this large hotel, so
comfort levels in the (previously) dated rooms
should have improved. It enjoys unmatched
views over a forest to the tank – see if you can
spot elephants across the water. It’s mainly set
up for buffet-style dining.Deer Park r ESort $$$
(%224 6272; http://www.deerparksrilanka.com; r from
US$108; aiWs) A large resort-style
property, deep in the trees by the tank , is
being steadily renovated. All cottages have
lovely garden sitting areas, some have
outdoor showers and the top units have
views of Giritale Tank. Nature tours can be
arranged and there is a spa and gym.