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wood-panelled bar for drinks. A pool was
under construction when we dropped by.
The Sanctuary at
Tissawewa HIS torIC HotEl $$$
(%222 2299; http://www.the-sanctuary-at-tissawewa-
anuradhapura-sri-lanka.ww.lk; s/d incl breakfast
US$106/118; aW) For sheer colonial class this
Raj-era relic (formerly a British governor’s res-
idence) can’t be matched. It’s been beautifully
and respectfully restored – the stylish rooms
boast all mod cons and the verandahs are a
delightful place to enjoy a peaceful afternoon,
overlooking the mature gardens dotted with
mahogany and teak trees and home to pea-
cocks and monkeys.
Service is excellent and the in-house restau-
rant is among the best in town.
Palm Garden Village Hotel HotEl $$$
(%222 3961; http://www.palmgardenvillage.com; old Put-
talam rd, Pandulagama; r from US$105; aWs)
Set in leafy gardens with a lovely pool area,
this resort hotel has spacious, if slightly dated,
rooms set in 38 hectares of gardens. Extras
include tennis courts, an Ayurvedic spa and
the occasional visiting elephant. It’s 6km west
of town.
5 Eating
Dining choices are surprisingly limited
in Anuradhapura. Several hotels have good
restaurants, including The Sanctuary at
Tissawewa.
Walkers S rI lANKAN $
(Harischandra Mawatha; mains rs 200-350; W) Just
east of the ‘elephant’ roundabout this modern
cafe-restaurant-store is a popular spot for egg,
curry and noodle dishes. There’s a side terrace
for dining and staff are friendly.
Family Super SUPErMArKEt $
(279 Main St; meals rs 100-250; h7am-8.30pm)
Anuradhapura’s best supermarket has im-
ported foods, sunscreen, mosquito repellent
and a separate bakery area with good short
eats and ice cream.
Casserole CHINESE $$
(279 Main St; mains rs 500-700; h7am-8.30pm;
W) It’s nothing that special but if you’re in
urgent need of some air-con and non-local
food this large 2nd-floor restaurant has lots of
Chinese, East Asian (try the nasi goreng) and
Western dishes.
oThe Sanctuary
at Tissawewa INtErNAtIoNAl, SrI lANKAN $$$
(www.the-sanctuary-at-tissawewa-anuradhapura-
sri-lanka.en.ww.lk; mains rs 800-1600; W) There
are few better situations for an enjoyable
meal or drink than the verandahs and dining
room in this beautiful colonial hotel. Try the
chilli-marinated grilled pork chops, a seafood
platter or one of their sandwiches. If you’re
touring the ruins in the daytime heat, drop by
for a coffee (the best in town, served in white
embossed china cups) or juice. No alcohol is
served but you can BYO.
THE AUKANA BUDDHA
According to legend, the magnificent 12m-high standing Aukana Buddha (admission rs 500)
was sculpted during the reign of Dhatusena in the 5th century, though some sources date it
to the 12th or 13th century. Aukana means ‘sun-eating’, and dawn – when the first rays light
up the huge statue’s finely carved features – is the best time to see it.
Note that although the statue is still narrowly joined at the back to the rock face it is cut
from, the lotus plinth on which it stands is a separate piece. The Buddha’s pose, ashiva
mudra, signifies blessings, while the burst of fire above his head represents the power of
total enlightenment.
You’ll need a sarong to visit the statue; the ticket office is at the top of the first set of
steep steps. A couple of vendors sell drinks near the parking area.Getting There & Away
The Aukana Buddha is 800m from the village of Aukana. It’s hard to visit this site by public
transport. Buses between Dambulla and Anuradhapura stop at the junction town of Kekira-
wa (Rs 30, 30 minutes, every 30 minutes), from where there are infrequent services to
Aukana, so you may be hanging around for some time. A three-wheeler from Kekirawa to
Aukana is around Rs 1000 with waiting time.
Alternatively, Aukana is on the Colombo to Trincomalee rail line. Four daily trains stop
here: the station is 1km from the statue.