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centuries, see the claim as a bridgehead for
Sinhalese colonisation.
The site might not be interesting
enough to warrant the lengthy detour: the
vast central red-brick dagoba stub is mas-
sive, but it lacks a particularly scenic set-
ting. An excavation is ongoing. The small
archaeological museum (h8am-5pm)
F has potential.
Batticaloa
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Historic Batticaloa (Batti for short) enjoys a
spectacular position surrounded by lagoons
with palm-filtered sunlight glancing off the
water. There’s a mellow vibe to the town,
and though there are no dramatic or must-
see sights, a morning exploring the com-
pact centre and its huge fortress and many
churches is time well spent. It’s not a large
place and ideal to explore on foot. Sandy
beaches are close by, but these were hit hard
by the 2004 tsunami.1 ights & ActivitiesS
There are three distinct areas of interest,
each divided by the waters of the Batticaloa
lagoon. The most atmospheric quarter is
Puliyanthivu, actually an island, and home
to the fort, several colonial-era churches
and the bus stands. Across the lagoon to the
north is the new town, the commercial hub
whose broad streets lined with shops and
banks. Southeast of here, via a bridge, is the
leafy suburb of Kallady, home to midrange
hotels, and a sandy beach.Dutch Fort ForT
(Bazaar st, Puliyanthivu; h8.30am-4.15pm)
F This once-mighty fort is now home
to administrative offices, and though large
sections of the structure are crumbling it’s
still an evocative sight. It was built by the
Portuguese in 1628, but the Dutch took over
after just 10 years, followed by the Brits.
Access is controlled, so you’re likely to be
escorted around the 6m-thick ramparts by
a policeman or soldier, who’ll point out the
English canons, surviving watchtowers and
ruined belltower. Views across the lagoon
are magnificent.
There’s a tiny museum with several in-
triguing items labelled, alas, only in Tamil,
and you can glimpse the old jail (now a
store).For a great perspective of the fort, head
to the tiny Auliya Mosque ( lady Manning
Dr) over the water with its curious green
minaret.Thiruchendur
Murugan Alayam Temple hiNDU
(Navalady rd, Kallady) Built in 1984 as a stopping
point on the Pada Yatra pilgrimage to Kata-
ragama, the temple has a Murugan image
said to have opened its own eyes before the
painter could do the job. The structure was
slammed by the tsunami, leaving its small
gopuram leaning at an alarming angle. The
colourful leaning tower sits near the beach be-
tween Third and Fourth Cross Sts in Kallady.Kallady &
Navalady Peninsula B eACh
This long, beach-edged peninsula is home to
the Kallady and Navalady neighbourhoods.
Kallady has a lovely near-deserted strip of
beach that’s fine for a swim, though there’s
still plenty of tsunami damage evident and
not that much shade.St Mary’s Cathedral ChUrCh
(st Mary’s st, Puliyanthivu) The grand,
turquoise-coloured St Mary’s Cathedral is
one of the most eye-catching churches in
Batti. St Mary’s was rebuilt in 1994 follow-
ing its partial destruction during fighting
between local Tamils and Muslims.Anipandi
Sitivigniswara Alayar hiNDU
( hospital rd, Puliyanthivu) Of the many Hindu
temples, Anipandi Sitivigniswara Alayar is
visually the finest, with a magnificent gop-
uram that’s decorated with a riotous festival
of intertwined god figures.Batticaloa Market MArKeT
(lloyds Ave) Stock up with tropical fruit as
well as gifts for back home, like spoons
made from coconut shells and palmyra palm
jaggery (raw sugar) in laid-back, hassle-free
environs.Imperial Saloon shriNe
(Trinco rd; h8.30am-8.30pm, to 1pm sun) Consid-
er a haircut and head massage (Rs 400) at this
utterly bizarre salon, a monument to kitsch.
Every inch is covered in decorative painting,
fake flowers, sequins, filigree, stained glass or
tinsel garlands, and at the back of the salon,
up towards the faux-sky ceiling, is an inter-
faith shrine, from where Durga, Mary and the
Buddha keep an eye on things.