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i8 Getting There & Away
AIR
Helitours (%011-314 4944, 011-311 0472; http://www.
helitours.lk), the sri lankan Air Force airline,
conducts passenger flights on military planes
between China Bay airfield, 13km south of
town, and Colombo’s ratmalana Air Force Base.
Flights operate three times a week (one way rs
4650, one hour).
Cinnamom Air (operated by SriLankan Air-
lines (%222 7775; http://www.srilankan.com; 328
Court Rd) flies between Colombo and Trinco-
malee (U s$254) three times a week.
BUS
The A15 coast road to Batticaloa is well and truly
open and in excellent condition. CTB and private
bus departures include the following:
Anuradhapura rs 210, four hours, four daily
Batticaloa (via Habarana and Polonnaruwa)
r s 200, four hours, every 30 minutes
Colombo from rs 345, eight hours, every
45 minutes
Colombo (air-con; book in advance) from
r s 600, 6½ hours, four evening departures
Jaffna (via Vavuniya) rs 320, seven hours,
nine daily
Kandy rs 265, 5½ hours, hourly, plus three
air-con (rs 430) buses daily
Uppuveli/Nilaveli rs 14/26, 20/30 minutes,
every 20 minutes
TRAIN
There are two trains daily between Trincomalee
and Colombo Fort, including a direct overnight
sleeper service. reserve at Trincomalee station
(%222 2271; hbookings 8am-noon). You can
also travel to Polonnaruwa and Batticaloa via a
change in gal oya.
Colombo sleeper 3rd-/2nd-/1st-class sleeper
r s 270/450/750, 8½ hours, 7.30pm
Colombo unreserved (transfer in Gal Oya)
3rd/2nd class rs 205/370, 8½ hours, 7am
U ppuveli & Nilaveli
% 026
North of Trinco, the indented coastline is
blessed with fine beaches. Development is
contained to two villages at the moment:
the pretty palm-lined sands of Uppuveli,
and the more exposed beach of Nilaveli,
which is far more spread out. The ambience
is very mellow at both places, but in season a
sociable backpacking scene is developing at
Uppuveli.
This is a poor region of fishing commu-
nities that was hit hard in wartime and the
2004 tsunami, but the coastal scenery more
than compensates. The ocean is the main at-
traction: there’s some surf, and the snorkel-
ling and scuba diving around Pigeon Island
(a pretty island ringed by coral reef just off-
shore from Nilaveli) is an increasing draw.Uppuveli
Uppuveli, 6km from Trincomalee, is an en-
gaging little coastal community consisting
of a fine beach of golden sand, a few hun-
dred locals, a dozen or so places to stay and a
seemingly unlimited supply of fresh seafood.
Uppuveli’s not exactly drop-dead gor-
geous, but it does have a distinctly local
charm, an intimate feel and some good-
value accommodation. It’s many travellers’
favourite hangout in the East.1 ights & ActivitiesS
Commonwealth
War Cemetery CeMeTerY
(Nilaveli rd; hdawn-dusk) For a break from the
beach, stroll up to this beautifully kept cem-
etery. This is the last resting place for hun-
dreds of Commonwealth servicemen who
died at Trinco during WWII, most of them
during a 1942 Japanese raid that sank more
than a dozen vessels.
You’ll be shown around by the amiable
caretaker, whose knowledge of the ceme-
tery is incredible – he’ll lead you to specific
graves, or those of the many nationalities
buried here.Salli
Muthumariamunam Kovil hiNDU
The beachfront Salli Muthumariamunam
Kovil temple is 4km by road from Uppuveli,
but only a short wade (or hop by boat if the
tide is high) from the north end of Uppuveli
beach. It’s across Fishermen’s Creek, masked
from view by green-topped rocks.Sri Lanka
Diving Tours D iViNg, WATersPorTs
(%077 068 6860, 071 132 3974; http://www.srilanka-
divingtours.com; Aqua inn hotel, 12 Alles gardens)
Dive professionals, offering thorough and
enjoyable courses (PADI Open Water is
US$425) and fun dives (US$40) to Pigeon
Island, Swami Rock in Trincomalee and the
Irakkandy shipwreck. Snorkelling trips are
also excellent.
Water-skiing and wakeboarding are
possible when conditions are suitable, and
kayaks (US$5), body boards and snorkelling
gear (US$5) are available for rent.