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History
The north has always existed a bit apart from
the rest of the island; even under colonial
regimes the region remained highly autono-
mous. Jaffna, especially, has always been an
important city, and one of the defining mo-
ments on the path to war came in 1981 when a
group of Sinhalese burnt down Jaffna’s library.
This was seen as a violent affront to the Tamils’
long and rich intellectual tradition.
The war began two years later, and Jaffna
continued to be a hotspot for violence. For
two decades the North was synonymous with
death and destruction as the Liberation Tigers
of Tamil Eelam (LTTE) and Sri Lankan mili-
tary contested control. With the war’s ending
on the shores of Mullaittivu in 2009, a sense
of calm and stability is at last returning to the
North, though there is still much rebuilding to
be done, both in terms of infrastructure and
community relations.
Climate
The north is made up of two distinct areas: the
low-lying Jaffna peninsula and its islands, and
the vast Vanni, a flat scrubby area. The region
is extremely dry most of the year, except after
the October to January northeastern mon-
soon, when the green erupts.
Vavuniya
%024 / POPULATION 78,000
A transport hub, the bustling town of Vavuni-
ya (vow-nya) has few sights but an afternoon
spent here isn’t unpleasant. With road and
rail links to Jaffna much improved, few travel-
lers stop in Vavuniya these days, though there
are adequate hotels and restaurants.
1 Sights
The town arcs around an attractive tank
that’s best observed from Kudiyiruppu
Pillaiyar Kovil, a sprawling Ganesh temple.
Archaeological Museum MuseuM
(%222 4805; Horowapatana rd; h9am-5pm)
F This museum is unlikely to impress if
you’re arriving from the ancient cities, but
some of the pinched-faced terracotta figures
from Kilinochchi (4th to 5th century) are de-
lightfully primitive, while the central hexago-
nal chamber has some fine 5th-to-8th-centu-
ry Buddha statues in Mannar limestone.
Madukanda Vihara BuDDHIsT
(Horowapatana rd) The quietly charming
Madukanda Vihara is a Rs 200 three-wheeler
ride from central Vavuniya, beyond the 3km
post southeast on the A29. It was reputedly
the fourth resting point in the journey of the
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